▻ Omnibus XXXXII
Episode Summary:-
February’s bitter winds blow through the wine industry. In this month’s Omnibus, John Stimpfig and Elin McCoy look at the major news stories which are affecting the wine world; sadly they are not all good.
First up, John attends the Burgundy En Primeur tastings in London and also the 10-years-on tasting of Bordeaux. He declares the white burgundies to be better than the reds, and the 2016 Bordeaux vintage to be his favourite Bordeaux vintage so far. Bad news though, in weather watch. There is now the almost expected news of wildfires in Chile, South Africa and Australia. John discusses which regions are most affected, and reveals that in Victoria, in Australia, 25 wineries have been caught up in the blazes: A constant reminder of the power of climate change.
There’s a different type of blaze in Argentina, where Javier Milei’s government has deregulated the wine industry--973 out of the 1207 existing wine regulations have been repealed. The role of the INV, the National Institute of Winemaking and Viticulture has been redefined--it no longer has any involvement with wine production. Now, its role is almost exclusively quality and safety of wine. The jury is out on what this will mean for Argentina’s wine industry.
Two major trade deals open up the market for wines from the EU and New Zealand in India. The EU trade deal took two decades to complete, while New Zealand’s took nine months. Great news for EU and NZ wineries, and excellent news for Indian wine lovers.
John looks back on the lives of four great wine names who have just departed. Daniel Cathiad of Château Smith Haut-Lafitte, Arnaldo Caprai, Chris Foulkes and André Morgenthal.
One section of the wine world which is booming is no- and low-alcohol wines, which are forecast to grow by 7% by 2028 and 10% by 2034. One new entrant to the market is none other than Britain’s national treasure, Elton John, who has launched a sparkling Elton John Zero Blanc de Blancs alcohol-free drink made from 100% Chardonnay grapes. John is slightly underwhelmed by its flavour and lack of texture, but declares at £10, it will fly off the shelf.
Over in the US, Elin McCoy states, “We are having a reconning in the US wine market.” The facts are stark: There are fewer wineries now than in 2024, and 40,000 acres of vines have been ripped out in California. Wine exports are down by a third, mainly due to Canada and China, and the value of a winery has plunged by 20-40% from five years ago. There are lots of wineries for sale, and Elin reports a chilling estimate: It costs US $4,000 to rip out an acre of vineyard, but it costs $10-12,000 to farm it. Hard times indeed.
Thank goodness for Taylor Swift. One bright spot is the increase of the sales of Sancerre in the US. Swiftenomics have cleared bottles of Sancerre from the shelves, as Swifties (as fans are known) caught sight of a bottle of Sancerre in her latest “End of an Era” documentary. Sancerre de Terres Blanches sold out immediately and the thirst for Sancerre has taken off in the US, where consumer demand is huge--the one region in France which is doing well.
The 2023 Bordeaux vintage was being shown by the Union des Grands Crus in New York. Elin reports that there were fewer châteaux than usual taking part, possibly down to the tariff uncertainty and the political climate in general. Elin is a fan of the vintage and picks out Château Pichon Lalande as her wine of the tasting. The mood, however, was subdued. “It’s sad that people don’t see what a good deal Bordeaux is,” she laments. Sarah agrees.
Then, over in Napa, two stories caught Elin’s eye. The first is the news that Andy Erickson and Annie Favia are launching their personal project, Favia, onto La Place. The wine is 21% Cabernet Franc and 79% Cabernet Sauvignon from fruit from Oakville and Coombsville. It is going to be released on March 1st.
Finally, get your running shoes on for the first Napa half-marathon, which is to take place on May 9th. Only 1,000 runners will be admitted, by way of the www.thewinemarathon.com site. A great way to connect with the younger generation, and where better to run than in one of the most beautiful wine regions in the world? Elin tells Sarah she will be on the sidelines cheering people on.
Running Order:-
-
0.00 – 41.31
“2016 Bordeaux is my favourite Bordeaux vintage.” – John Stimpfig
– John reports on Burgundy En Primeur and Bordeaux 2016 tasting.
– Weather Watch – wildfires in Australia, Chile and South Africa.
– Argentina deregulates the wine industry.
– Two trade deals open India’s wine market.
– Farewell to Daniel Cathiard, Arnaldo Caprai, Chris Foulkes and André Morgenthal. – Elton John enters the no-alcohol market with a sparkling wine -
41.31 – 01.20
“We are having a reckoning of the US wine industry.” – Elin McCoy
– The state of the US wine industry.
– Taylor Swift and the success of Sancerre.
– The market for Bordeaux in the US.
– Andy Erickson and Annie Favia’s new wine .
– The Napa marathon.
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Keep up with our adventures in wine
Vineyards being pulled up, wineries and châteaux for sale, exports falling, wildfires… grim news in this month’s Omnibus. There are however, a couple of bright spots – Taylor Swift’s effect on Sancerre sales in the US and the EU and New Zealand’s trade agreement with India. Just a few of the stories Elin McCoy and John Stimpfig will be covering this month.