▻ Omnibus XLIII
Episode Summary:-
In our latest Omnibus, John Stimpfig and Elin McCoy look at the big stories that made the headlines in the wine world this month. John talks to Sarah Kemp, who has just returned from Bordeaux tasting the 2025 vintage, about the mood regarding the upcoming campaign. The UK merchants are talking about En Primeur as being “the last chance saloon,” but both Sarah and John recall this phrase being used for the last 20 years. What’s certain is that it’s a very different market than 20 years ago.
John reports on the news that there is discussion of work on developing a third new cuvee from Krug. No official statement yet, but speculation is rising, and John promises to find out more for a future episode. Less good news from Champagne: Spring frosts have affected nearly 40 percent of buds – we’ll know soon how this will affect the yields this vintage.
Perhaps the biggest story this month was the unexpected death of the superstar consultant Michel Rolland, who died at 78 from a heart attack. John looks back on the life of this giant of the wine industry in a tribute to him. Another major wine personality to leave us is Pierre Trimbach, the Technical Director and winemaker at Alsace’s famous house. Pierre worked alongside his brother Jean and was the 12th generation of the family to work at the winery. It is Trimbach’s 400th anniversary, so a very bittersweet year for the family.
There’s surprising news from the Rhone: In a bold move, Jaboulet’s Domaine de la Chapelle has appointed Italian winemaker Chiara Pepe. She’s the granddaughter of Emilio Pepe and was the winemaker at the family’s Emidio Pepe estate in Abruzzo. She replaces Caroline Frey, who stepped away in June 2025, citing a desire to focus on her Swiss vineyards.
One person who will be cycling through the vineyards of Champagne is John Stimpfig. He will be setting off in June with the UK distributor team of Hatch Mansfield to ride 200km to raise money for Hospitality Action. Champagne Krug are hosting the event this year, which will see ten teams from all over the world raising money for the beleaguered hospitality industry. To support the charity, please support John by donating here.
Over in the US, Elin McCoy reports that on April 20th Robert Mondavi Winery’s renovation was officially opened, coinciding with the 60th anniversary of the renowned winery. Over 200 million dollars has been spent on the renovation, and Elin describes the new To-Kalon cellar, indoor and outdoor tasting experiences, and sparkling hospitality wing. Altogether, a bright spot in the somewhat worrisome climate of wine in the Napa Valley.
Jet-setter Elin also fitted in a trip to Bordeaux, where she spent two weeks tasting the 2025 vintage. She names Château Margaux as her wine of the vintage (Sarah also named it her wine of the vintage). At a more affordable level, she reveals that she believes that Castillon is where true value can be found in Bordeaux, and cites the famous producers which have properties there. Value is also playing a role for millennials choosing wine in New York; Elin reports that Bordeaux is back in fashion, as the price point is more attractive than many Californian wines.
After her trip to Bordeaux, Elin headed to Champagne to join Champagne Laurent-Perrier for the launch of their latest Grand Siècle release. Elin recounts her glamorous time picnicking at Versailles, staying at the ultimate luxury hotel Les Crayères and visiting Laurent-Perrier’s Château de Louvois. While the visit was truly glamorous, the most glamorous element, Elin declared, was the champagnes, something we can all relate to and enjoy.
In media news, Ted Hall, previously an executive at consultants McKinsey & Co. and Robert Mondavi Winery and growing grapes and farming sustainably at his Long Meadow Ranch in the Napa Valley, is also making waves with his iconoclastic Substack posts, for example causing much comment with declarations such as “there are too many wineries in the Napa Valley for the market they have created,” linking this with the small amount of consultants advising them. A “sea of sameness” is one of the issues that can be levelled against (especially) the Cabernet Sauvignons of Napa, he stated recently, as he noted that 400 members of the Napa Valley Vintners association make less than 10,000 cases, and 100-170 of them, however esteemed, are simply not economically viable. Given those opinions, his Substack outspokenness will surely be the talk of the Napa Valley Wine Auction this June.
Running Order:-
-
0.00 – 19.38
“40% of buds have been affected in Champagne by Spring frost.”
– Predictions for pricing for the 2025 Bordeaux vintage campaign.
– Talk of a third “Clos” from Krug.
– Spring frosts in Champagne.
– Michel Rolland and Pierre Trimbach – looking back on their lives. -
19.39 – 28.50
– Chiara Pepe becomes the new winemaker at Jaboulet’s Domaine de la Chapelle.
– John Stimpfig’s charity bike ride in aide of Hospitality Action. -
28.51 – 01.00
“There are too many wineries in the Napa Valley for the market they have created.” – Ted Hall
– The opening of the refurbished Robert Mondavi Winery.
– Ted Hall’s report on the viability of Napa Valley wineries.
– Elin’s top wine of Bordeaux 2025.
– Why Castillon is the best value in Bordeaux.
– Champagne Laurent-Perrier launch latest Grand Siècle.
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Find out what the talk of Napa Valley is, discover Elin’s Bordeaux 2025 wine of the vintage, how Spring frosts have affected Champagne, which wines are hot in New York and much more.