✒ Ca’Marcanda’s 30th Anniversary
by Sarah Kemp
Gaia Gaja was in London to celebrate the 30th anniversary of Ca’ Marcanda, the Gaja family’s Bolgheri estate.
Bolgheri today is well-known to wine lovers, as the home of some of Italy’s most renowned names, such as Sassicaia and Ornelliaia, but it wasn’t so well-known 30 years ago, when Angelo Gaja, the deservedly famous Piedmontese producer, decided to create a vineyard there. When he arrived, there were less than 10 wineries; now there are 60.
“Excellence can be found where no one is looking yet,” Angelo told his daughter. Bogheri for him represented freedom, just three hours from Barbaresco. She recounted how he was not looking for a particular style, but was curious and at the age of 57, he took the plunge to buy, attracted by the beauty of the landscape and its potential. “He cheated on Nebbiolo with Cabernet, I call it his middle-age crisis,” she laughed.
Gaia explained that right from the beginning, he was focusing on climate change, and collaborating with university professors on all aspects of vineyard management and that phenomenon, in particular entomology with Andrea Lucchi from the University of Pisa, who became a consultant. There are 27 different soils in Bolgheri, though at Ca’ Marcanda there are two distinct types: At higher altitudes, there is white soil consisting of limestone and pebbles, and, lower down, dark soils of colluvial and alluvial origin, consisting of clay and iron oxide which gives the wine its concentration. The first vineyards were planted in 1996.
In 2011, Gaia took over from her father, though he is still often in the vineyards “He is obliged to take decisions with us,” she smiles ruefully. The difference between Piedmont and Bogheri? Gaia reflected, then said, “Bolgheri is a land of noble people who travelled, Piedmont is a farming culture. The wines of Bolgheri are Italinate” Gaia elaborated on how Bolgheri, like the food of Italy was highly distinctive, the wines of Bolgheri could only be Italian, the triumph of Italian raw material. The tasting of nine wines going back to 2000 certainly proved Angelo’s vision was inspired.
Wine Notes:-
Ca’Marcanda, Bolgheri DOP 2023
Abundant rain in spring led to juicy berries. Highly perfumed floral nose with hints of rhubarb. On the palate, a firm core of fresh redcurrants, nettle, herb notes, cocoa, spice, black and white pepper all held in place by gentle refined tannins. The wine is mid-weight, great poise and very lyrical and elegant. Terrific length. Giving pleasure right now.
80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Cabernet Franc
Ca’Marcanda, Bolgheri DOP 2022
A very warm vintage marked by a drought that began in late winter and lasted through much of the summer. The berries had very thick skins which has led to a powerful expression in the wine. On the palate there is chocolate, black pepper, redcurrants and damsons, aromatic herbs. All still tightly coiled. One for the cellar.
80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Cabernet Franc
Ca’Marcanda, Bolgheri DOP 2021
A generous vintage of opulence has produced a brilliantly defined Ca’Marcanda. On the palate a deep core of juicy blueberries and redcurrants with layers of sage, white pepper, hints of coffee notes. The tannins are refined. There is bags of energy here and a delicious salinity which demands another sip. Wonderful tension, reminding me of a high-wire tight-rope walker. The fruit just dances wildly on your palate, it is so complex and beguiling – utterly brilliant.
80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Cabernet Franc
Ca’Marcanda, Bolgheri DOP 2020
Warm winter with adequate rain from October to February, followed by two Spring frosts that caused damage in the lowest lying vineyards. The wine has marine elements on the nose, a touch of iodine and sea shells. The palate is clearly Mediterranean, complex, firm core of blueberries, seaweed, pine, green notes, a wonderful creamy texture, very moreish and saline with a long, persistent finish, beautifully balanced.
80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Cabernet Franc
Ca’Marcanda, Bolgheri DOP 2019
A year of chaotic weather conditions, leading to a delayed harvest which gave time for the grapes to develop riper skins and ripe tannins. Very powerful expression, tannins firm, complex, dense core of black and blue fruit, cocoa, graphite, touches of cinnamon, spice, green tea, very layered. Long persistent finish.
80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Cabernet Franc
Ca’Marcanda, Bolgheri DOP 2016
Abundant rainfall in winter and spring, followed by a warm and dry summer, led to a favourable vintage. At ten years of age, the wine showed savoury tertiary fruit but still retained remarkable freshness. Layers of juicy damson and blackcurrants, leather, white pepper, green tea, Mediterranean herbs – well balanced and moreish.
80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Cabernet Franc
Ca’Marcanda, Bolgheri DOP 2015
The rainy spring provided enough water in the vineyard to offset the very high temperatures in August. The nose is floral, the palate shows a tight core of blueberries with layers of cigar, graphite, and very finely grained tannins. This wine will last the distance and reward cellaring.
80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Cabernet Franc
Ca’Marcanda, Bolgheri DOP 2007
Proof if there needed to be of the great ageing ability of Ca’Marcanda. Earlier vintages contained a high proportion of Merlot, which due to climate change has been replaced by Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. Uplifted aromas of ripe blueberries, on the palate a generous, expressive concoction of uplifted blue and red fruit, deep core of swirling layers of pine, Mediterranean herbs, sea-shells dancing amongst the fruit. Gentle tannins present, the whole package is very defined and elegant. A great saline lick on the finish, utterly moreish, long and persistent. Would be a great Grand Vin to finish a meal, perfect with hard cheese.
50% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon 10% Cabernet Franc
Ca’Marcanda, Bolgheri DOP 2000
There is almost an unworldly element to this wine, a wine to take you to a different realm. The nose rises with balsam and gentle autumn leaves, there are marine elements too. On the palate, generous, stylish yearning fruit, nuts, green tea, marzipan, sweetness of chestnuts, hints of old leather, long. Tannins are integrated and refined, everything is defined and beautifully balanced. A wine of another era, a huge sense of place, a true nobleness, unforgettable.
50% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc
Gaia Gaja was in town to celebrate the 30th anniversary of Ca’Marcanda, the family’s Bolgheri estate.