▻ Chassagne-Montrachet with Jasper Morris MW
In conversation with Jasper Morris MW
Episode Summary:-
Jasper Morris MW, author of “Inside Burgundy” and www.insideburgundy.com, takes a deep dive into Chassagne-Montrachet, which he believes is a really exciting village, because as well as the old guard, you’ve got a generation of people in their 40s and another generation in their 30s, all of whom are really exciting. “The domaine owners are the ones out in the vineyards, you don’t always get that in the grander villages.”
Chassagne-Montrachet is in the Côte d’Or, at the southern end of the Côte de Beaune. Its soil is a mixture of limestone and clay, with more limestone at the top of the slope, leading to heavier clays further down the slope.
There are three Grands Crus, Le Montrachet, the greatest of all, Bâtard-Montrachet (both are shared with Puligny-Montrachet) and Criots-Bâtards-Montrachet. Jasper explains how the Premiers Crus can be divided into four bands. The first band are the vineyards closest to the Grands Crus, Blanchot-Dessus and upslope Dent de Chien and En Remilly, “which are beautifully stoney crystalline.”
In the middle, there are less individual characteristics; Jasper recommends looking for Chevenottes, Les Chaumées and Maltroie. Then, upslope, there are some brilliant ones, Cailleret, Romanée and Grandes Ruchottes. “How I love those wines!” Jasper exclaims. Then there is a larger area, Morgeot, which is divided into sub- Premiers Crus. They are on the clay, so you need time for these wines, Jasper explains.
Chassagne-Montrachet is a big village, but has a small number of families, the Morey clan, the Colin clan, the Colin-Moreys, Coffinet family, Morey-Coffinet, the Gagnard family and individuals as well. The most well-known names outside the families mentioned are Domaine Ramonet, Domaine Lamy-Caillat, the two Moreau brothers and Domaine Paul Pillot, which Jasper declares is outstanding.
Upcoming names to look out for? Jasper suggests Domaine Coffinet-Duvernay and Benoit Moreau.
There is still value at certain prices; Jasper points out village white Chassagne-Montrachet, as long as it comes from parts of the village which are best for white grapes. It used to be that Chassagne-Montrachet had as much red wine, if not more, than white wine. It is now heading to 70/30 in favour of whites, but a lot of those whites are not really on the right soil, Jasper explains. The reds in the right hands can be great, and Jasper reveals that if he had his way Clos St-Jean would only be red.
The taste of white Chassagne-Montrachet is the most difficult to specify, he admits, it’s between the verticality of Puligny and the roundness of Chassagne. The reds can have too many tannins, but if the tannins add structure and not take over, then that’s what you want in a red Chassagne.
It’s a tricky time for the community, as at the moment the INAO are looking at boundaries between vineyards, and are looking at historical data. Jasper concludes with his obscure fact: In Chassagne-Montrachet, you were not supposed to marry someone across the road that runs down from St-Aubin. One producer did, and it is still being talked about today.
Running Order:-
-
0.00 – 5.04
“Chassagne-Montrachet is a really exciting village because as well as the old guard, you’ve got a generation of people in their 40s and another generation in their 30s, all of whom are really exciting. The domaine owners are the ones out in the vineyards, you don’t always get that in the grander villages.”
– Where Chassagne-Montrachet is.
– Chassagne-Montrachet’s terroir.
– The Grands Crus and Premiers Crus.
– The main producers and famous producers.
– Upcoming producers. -
5.05 – 10.30
“It used to be Chassagne-Montrachet had as much red, if not more so than white.”
– Where to find value.
– Red Chassagne-Montrachet.
– The taste of red and white Chassagne-Montrachet.
– New developments – INAO looking at boundaries.
– Jasper’s obscure fact.
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Discover Chassagne-Montrachet with Burgundian guru Jasper Morris MW