▻ Omnibus XLIV
Episode Summary:-
As the monumental heatwaves batter Europe, The Wine Conversation team deliver the latest news from the wine world, including how Mother Nature continues to bring chaotic weather conditions to wine producers around the world. The 2026 harvest is taking shape under ferocious temperatures with little rain forecast..
Unsurprisingly, heatwaves are the main topic this month, with the Languedoc the worst hit with temperatures reaching 109 degrees Fahrenheit. Heatwaves aren’t the only problem. There has been flooding in the Western Cape and Robertson Valley, hail in the Loire and the Côte de Beaune, Spring frosts in Virginia, and crop loss in New York State.
While weather and drought are becoming the norm, so is uncertainty: The 2025 Bordeaux vintage suffered from a long period of high temperatures, with rain at the end of August “saving the vintage”. John Stimpfig and Elin McCoy report on the En Primeur campaign, which while better than 2024, was not a runaway success. Elin names the wines that did well in the US and John asks if the system is still working.
In other news, Michelin have launched their first guide to wine. The region chosen is Burgundy. We at The Wine Conversation consider this a brave choice. As with their hotels and restaurants, they are rating on a scale of 3 to 1 grapes (instead of stars) with a section for “selected estates”. 94 Burgundy estates have been given grape ratings, 9 given 3 grapes, 20 estates 2 grapes and 33 estates 1 grape. 32 estates have been named “selected estates”. The rating has already caused controversy, with Domaine Arnoux-Lachaux publicly asking Michelin to remove them from the guide, stating that they stopped submitting wines for press reviews and ratings years ago. As the reviewers are anonymous, this all calls into question how the estates were ranked and how many of the wines were actually tasted.
John and Elin also look back on the life of actor and acclaimed New Zealand vintner Sam Neill of Two Paddocks, with Elin declaring that the day she spent with him was one of the most fun days of her life. How could it not be, when you get to meet his menagerie of animals named after fellow actors, including Helena Bonham Carter the cow?. Apparently, all the actors were thrilled with this. Another luminary who has left us too early is Eileen Crane, who helped put California sparkling wine on the map and was the founding winemaker at Domaine Carneros. Eileen McCoy discusses her remarkable life.
Congratulations are also in order to both the Old Vine Registry and the Sydney Royal Wine Show. The Old Vine Registry has just hit 10,000 named old vine vineyards and the Sydney Royal Wine Show celebrates its 200th anniversary. Chapeau to both!
Elin takes a long look at the state of the Napa wine industry, in which she says, “Napa is changing, Napa is evolving”. There are a lot of contradictions going on, with winners and losers: 25-40% of Napa wineries are under extreme economic pressure and may not survive. “Napa is not immune from the global wine turmoil,” Elin states. Bright spots, however, include the planting of more white varietals with white wine selling well, and Napa town itself becoming a hot spot for wine lovers. A big issue for Napa Valley is that their major export market, Canada, has declined and in some states, stopped, due to the imposition of tariffs imposed by the Trump administration. In 2024, 36% California’s exports went to Canada, in 2025, down to 12%.
One really bright spot, welcomed by Elin and Sarah, is the news that Kroger supermarkets are putting wine-tasting bars in 147 locations staffed by wine people. While not every state allows wine to be sold in supermarkets in the US, the idea that shoppers can taste before they buy and get wine advice is a huge step forward in democratising wine. We say hurrah to that!
Finally, what to drink in the heatwave. Chilled red is Elin’s recommendation. Apparently, she isn’t alone, with internet searches for chilled red wine up by 1000%. We say cheers to that, too.
Running Order:-
-
0.00 – 26.50
“En Primeur – I can’t help feeling that the writing is increasingly on the wall for this system” – John Stimpfig
– How the 2025 Bordeaux En Primeur campaign fared in Britian.
– Michelin launch their first wine guide on the region of Burgundy.
– Weather watch – heatwaves, floods and hail across the wine world. -
26.51 – 35.40
“The Old Vine Registry has just recorded its 10,000 old vine vineyard” – John Stimpfig
– Sam Neill obituary.
– Old Vine Registry reaches 10,000 entries.
– Sydney Royal Wine Show celebrates its 200th edition. -
35.41 – 01.16
“A lot of Napa winery tasting rooms are closing, they don’t have visitors" – Elin McCoy
– How the 2025 Bordeaux En Primeur campaign fared in the US.
– Elin looks back on the life of Sam Neill, Two Paddocks and Eileen Crane of Domaine Carneros.
– Napa Valley report, what is working and what isn’t.
– Kroger supermarket launches wine tasting bars.
– Chilled reds for summer drinking.
Reports on the state of Napa Valley, how En Primeur 2025 Bordeaux fared in the UK and US, reaction to Michelin’s guide to Burgundy, weather watch and much more.