▻ Omnibus XXVII
Episode Summary:-
In our first Omnibus of 2024, our intrepid editors have been out in the field discovering the big stories of the month, plus gazing into their crystal balls for predictions about the year ahead. First off though, John Stimpfig and Sarah Kemp reveal their favourite three wines from the festive season, and also confess dry January was not for them. They’re not alone: Across the Channel, the idea of that month-long pause caused a great deal of Gallic indignation, after 48 French professors, who are addiction experts, wrote an open letter to the government, asking them to get behind Dry January (known there as “Défil de Janvier,” the January Challenge), despite the fact that 90% of French people drink less than the recommended 10 glasses a week. The government, mindful of the half a million people working in the wine industry and run by a pro-wine president (Macron is reputed to drink wine at lunch and dinner), was not impressed. To add to the resulting press furore, famous restauranteur Alain Ducasse encouraged people to drink more in January, and reduced prices on top Bordeaux and Burgundies, hoping to persuade people to order bottles instead of glasses.
On a quieter note, the Burgundy 2022 vintage has been well received by the press, and for once there is a decent amount to go round. John looks at the prices and Sarah comments that for her the sweet spot in this vintage is Chablis. John also discusses the news that the Wine-Searcher website has been bought by the American company Flaviar, who specialise in spirits subscription clubs, and wonders what the future may be for the company. Then, we look back on the life of Ezio Rivella, the oenologist who was one of Italy’s great modernisers, but was also polarising and controversial. Staying in Italy, John reflects on the news from Allegrini that the family are splitting, dividing their Tuscan and Valpolicella wine businesses.
Ingredient labelling will soon be required for wine marketed in the EU. John and Sarah welcome the news, as it will give consumers more information, though it might be uncomfortable for some vintners. In Germany, where this has been trialled, 10% of people have read the back label or QR code, more than Sarah thought.
John’s predictions for 2024 are, frankly, gloomy. Climate change remains a concern and the supply chain is under pressure, with low levels of water in the Panama Canal and wars in the Middle East making shipping increasingly unsafe. Government regulations and guidelines on health are also feeding into the decline in consumption in many countries, including France, Germany and Spain, all at a time when there is major over-production, and then there is the cost-of-living crisis. So, it was a relief to hear more joyful news from our US editor, Elin McCoy.
Elin reported on her recent trip to Chile, where she was attending the 20th anniversary of the Berlin Tasting with Eduardo Chadwick. While out in Chile, she visited several other wineries which are spearheading the luxury wine tourism movement. “Chile has become a fabulous destination for wine lovers,” she declares. Then, we go from Chile to Florida, to the Naples Winter Wine Festival and Charity Wine Auction, where the great and the good of the wine world had assembled, including Pierre Lurton and Lorenzo Pasquini from Château d’Yquem, Veronique Drouhin-Boss of Drouhin, the Antinoris, the Harlans from Harlan Estate amongst many other famous names. The auction raised more than $33 million US dollars from the 50 extraordinary wine lots, with the money going to the Naples Children and Education Foundation. Astonishing.
Elin predicts six major wine trends for 2024, agreeing with John that climate change is the number-one concern. She predicts that more white and rosé wine will be drunk at the expense of reds: “White and Rosé are edging out reds for more than half of the wine consumer globally,” she says. Sauvignon Blanc is on the rise, and she reveals that vineyard acreage in California of Sauvignon Blanc has more than doubled since 2022, while sparkling wine continues to go “bananas” with 25% of American drinkers downing two glasses of sparkling wine a week. Another prediction is the growth of the No-and-Low alcohol category. A Gallup poll found that more than 50 per cent of Americans aged between 18-34 believe even moderate drinking is bad for your health.
What is wine? That’s a question Elin believes is going to be asked more in 2024, as the parameters change with co-ferments becoming more popular. Rewarding consumers for loyalty is another trend, with retailers and wineries offering unique perks, depending on how much consumers spend. Artificial Intelligence will increase its role in the wine world, both in making wine and selling wine. Open Air, the US developer, has reported that ChatGPT version-4 has passed three levels of the Master Sommelier exam, the theory part not the practical. Elin, Sarah and John are relieved that the robots haven’t learnt to taste yet, but wonder for how long?
Running Order:-
-
0.00 – 14.25
“90% of French people drink under the recommended 10 glasses a week.” – John Stimpfig
– Sarah and John’s favourite three wines over the festive period.
– The row over “Défi de Janvier (Dry January)” in France.
– 2022 Burgundies – how good are they?
– Wine-Searcher is sold to Flaviar.
– Remembering Ezio Rivella. -
15.26 – 26.20
“Burgundy 2022 – Chablis is my sweet spot.” – Sarah Kemp
– Allegrini family divide up their Valpolicella and Tuscany estates.
– Ingredient labelling coming into force for wines marketed in the EU.
– John’s predictions for 2024. -
26.21 – 01.01
“Chile is rapidly becoming a luxurious destination for wine lovers.” – Elin McCoy
– Elin reports on how Chile is becoming a luxury destination for wine lovers.
– The Naples Winter Wine Festival and Charity Wine Auction raises $33 million.
– Elin’s six predictions for 2024 wine trends.
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