✒ Isole e Olena New Releases
Isole e Olena Estate Director Emanuele Reolon
On a cold, windy February night, Emanuele Reolon met Britain’s wine press for the first time in his new role of Estate Director of Isole e Olena. David Gleave MW, of Liberty Wine renown, who had been the first person to import Isole e Olena back in the 1980s, had ensured smooth sailing by holding the dinner at The River Café, where the menu would complement the wines with authentic Tuscan flair. Reolon is in his early forties, and has worked in Chianti as well as Romania. He told me that he spoke to Paolo de Marchi, who sold the winery to the EPI Group (which also owns Champagne Charles Heidsieck and Biondi-Santi) every day. He was astounded by Paolo’s generosity: “He could have just walked away,” he said.
Reolon has an easy, open, almost boyish charm, and is thrilled to have landed at one of Italy’s most acclaimed estates – his enthusiasm and love of the property radiated around the room. The release of the latest vintage was the focus of the evening; older vintages were also shown, to demonstrate the ability of the wines to age. I will continue to bang the drum that Chianti is currently offering wine lovers the best value for money in the fine-wine market, and here is more proof. After all the work done by the Consorzio 20 years ago in recommending new clones, trellising, spacing, and better viticultural practices, the changes made are now showing in the glass. Paolo de Marchi helped lead the movement of Chianti from taverna wine to fine wine for collectors, and it was heartening to meet Emanuele, who is enthusiastically taking up the baton and continuing his great work. The three releases below were Paolo’s last vintages.
Wine Notes:-
Isole e Olena “Collezione Privata” Chardonnay 2022
I am a big fan of Isole e Olena’s chardonnays (see previous tasting notes), which match top Burgundies for complexity and subtlety, but have a distinct Tuscan profile. The 2022 did not disappoint. White flowers on the nose, the palate has a wonderful rich, powerful, energetic expression – lots of citrus zest balances the core of stone fruit, slightly tight at moment, so will reward patience either in the cellar or in the glass.
Isole e Olena Chianti Classico 2021
In terms of value for money, it is hard to beat Isole e Olena’s Chianti Classico. The 2021 release has all the bright, Bing cherries and spice you want from a great Chianti. Wonderful grip, with a focused intensity, meaty essence, and slight hint of fresh mushrooms. There is great freshness and energy in this wine. Still slightly tight on the finish, but has the potential to be one of the great vintages for cellaring.
Cepparello 2021
The first vintage of Cepparello was 1980, and the Sangiovese grapes come from the best sites on the estate. The nose intrigues with its fragrance and spice, while on the palate there is concentration and richness, a core of red fruit, luscious damson plums and cherries, and delicious refreshing acidity, which seems to get more intense as it coats the mouth. Power and elegance perfectly combined. Still tight on the finish, but definitely one to keep to watch and enjoy its magnificent core of fruit unfold.
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Great to meet Emanuele Reolon, the new Estate Director of Isole e Olena at the River Café for the launch of the new vintages.