▻ Omnibus XXXIX
Episode Summary:-
Good, bad and disastrous news abounds in this month’s Omnibus. John Stimpfig starts with a look at how the harvest is shaping up in northern Europe, and reports on several places experiencing wildfires, including Corbière, which has been badly hit. The good news? Quality and quantity are looking as if they will be up on the 2024 vintage (report from end of August) and we will be giving a full report in a future episode. John also digs into the latest Wine Australia report, which claims that the country is adjusting better to supply and demand, though the country is still predominantly producing red wine while consumers turn more and more to white. One bit of good news is that for the first time white grape varieties are now occupying three of the top wine varietal spots, with Pinot Grigio showing growth and surpassing Merlot for the first time.
News that the World Health Organisation have proposed raising taxes by 50% on wine by 2035 and stating that “the risk to health starts with the first drop of alcohol beverage” has John asking what the wine industry can do to combat these negative measures and methods. One hope is that a film being made by Dr Norrie in Australia, who is a proponent of the benefits of moderate drinking, will see light on a major network channel. He states that research shows that wine drinkers outlive teetotallers by five years.
We welcome the news that prison sentences and fines have been imposed on the gang masters who kept workers in such appalling conditions during the Champagne harvest and believe it is also good news that the cooperative who used the workers has also been fined. In all, 57 individuals have received compensation of 4,000 Euros each and the cooperative has been fined 75,000 euros for using the services of the company which employed the workers.
Canadian wine lovers will be thrilled to know that, as from next May, they can buy direct from producers in all but three states. John also notes Decanter has celebrated its 50th anniversary and the trade title Meininger’s has closed. Both Sarah and John are saddened to hear this and recommend that Robert Joseph, the editor, is worth following on his new Substack column.
Elsewhere, John looks at the new rules in Ribeiro, in Spain, where non-indigenous varieties are being phased out. Then, we reflect on the life of Gerard Perse of Château Pavie who has just died at the age of 75, and discuss the surprise departure of Caroline Frey, who is stepping back from her role as head of Château La Lagune, Paul Jaboulet Aineé, Domaine de la Chapelle and Château Corton C.
More movement at Berry Bros and Rudd, with the announcement that Rob Symington, who has held the position of co-CEO of the Symington Family Estates, will be the new Managing Director, whilst still retaining a position on the family board in Portugal.
In a story that thrilled Sarah, John has discovered that on 11th October there will be a Woof and Wine Walk through the vineyards of Coonawarra, with six wineries participating. There will be dog-friendly treats, prizes for dog and owner look-alikes, and a “Yappy Hour.” Sarah hopes other wineries will take note and asks, hopefully, could this be a new trend?
Over in the US, Elin McCoy reports on the Pickett wildfire, which has caused smoke taint on Napa’s Howell Mountain and, further south, there is damage from wildfires in Santa Barbara. Currently 65 million dollars of damage has been caused, and with wineries unable to insure their vineyards, it is a major problem. More bad news came in the form of tariffs, which took effect in August, meaning European wines suffered a 15% rise; Elin also points out that for American wineries, the cost of barrels, bottles, and capsules have risen too.
She then reports on her latest visit to the Finger Lakes in New York State, and urges, “Please, people, look for Finger Lakes wines and you will be very surprised.” She was there to celebrate the 40th anniversary of Dr Konstantin Frank Winery, and whilst there also visited Paul Hobbs, who is growing world-class Riesling, and a new winery called Apollo’s Praise, which is winning major wine awards though only two years old, Altogether, she advises, a great wine-lovers’ destination, with beautiful scenery and not the “crazy” hotel prices of Napa Valley.
And also in the Napa Valley, the latest developments over the To-Kalon vineyard have not pleased Sarah or Elin, who explains how the latest ruling by the US Board of Geographic Names has repealed an earlier decision, which means that To-Kalon is now seen as a brand and not a place name. The brand is owned by the giant corporation Constellation Brands, which owns Robert Mondavi Winery. This means that other growers in the To-Kalon vineyard, like the MacDonald brothers, can’t put To-Kalon on the label, even if their grapes are grown there. This has wide implications for US wine producers, if a single winery has trademarked a particular vineyard or area. “The decision that To-Kalon is only a brand is a vote against terroir,” Elin states, and adds it has not gone down well with most wine producers.
Finally, a new trend. No, it’s not another wine-and-food pairing, it is wine-and-book pairing! Elin reports on a trend, for bookshops to combine with wine bars. There are four in New York, a couple in Paris and one in upstate New York. Elin urges listeners to send in their favourite wine and book pairing, and she and Sarah agree that we will publish a list of the best recommendations.
Running Order:-
-
0.00 – 20.31
“First time white grape varieties are occupying three of the top spots in Australia” – John Stimpfig
– Harvest update in the Northern Hemisphere.
– Wine Australia’s report on grape varieties.
– World Health Organisation proposes new taxes on wine.
– Gang masters jailed in Champagne workers scandal.
– Meininger closes magazine and Decanter’s 50th anniversary. -
20.32 – 34.45
“There is even a “Yappy Hour” – John Stimpfig on Coonawarra’s wine and woof walk
– New regulations in Ribeiro.
– Life of Gerard Perse of Château Pavie.
– Caroline Frey steps down.
– Rob Symington becomes Managing Director of Berry Brothers and Rudd.
– Coonawarra’s Wine and Woof talk. -
34.46 – 53.50
“Please people look for Finger Lake wines, you will be very surprised" – Elin McCoy
– Wildfires in California.
– Tariff update.
– Why you should visit the Finger Lakes. -
53.52 – 01.10
“Is it a terroir or is it a brand?" – Elin McCoy on To-Kalon controvery
– To-Kalon name controversy.
– The new trend – wine and book matching.
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This month we look at the 2025 harvest in Europe and North America, find out why Chablis is selling out in the US, and discover the latest research presented at The Old Vines Conference, plus the industry hits back at the anti-alcohol lobby and much more.