▻ Château Lafleur Leaving the Pomerol Appellation
Sarah Kemp in conversation with Jane Anson
Episode Summary:-
In our first emergency Bordeaux podcast, Sarah Kemp and Jane Anson discuss the news that has sent shock waves around the wine world, that the stellar Pomerol estate Château Lafleur has announced it is leaving the Pomerol appellation from the 2025 vintage and will bottle their wines as Vin de France.
Jane discusses the reasons the Guinaudeau family have given, which are driven by climate change and the restrictions imposed by the appellation system. The family broke the news in an email to their friends and importers and then followed up with another letter, setting out five measures which they believe the AOC should adopt. These include authorising planting of lower densities, authorising full soil-cover techniques, the use of canopy shading, reduction of canopy height and allowing irrigation (they state, “the question is no longer whether irrigation is needed, but how it is managed.”)
Jane and Sarah discuss the ramifications of their action, and agree that while Lafleur will not be affected by the move, as their brand is so strong, it is not a good message for their neighbours in Pomerol when one of the stellar estates with a reputation for terroir management quits the system. (In a recent Wine Conversation podcast, Christian Moueix, who Hugh Johnson has called the reference point for Pomerol, discussed why he was against irrigation (he famously dry-farms in Napa, where irrigation is allowed, and where it is common practice).
Jane points out that the 2025 harvest is not yet over, and discusses how the vintage is shaping up so far. What is certain is that this is an enormously significant wine news story.
Running Order:-
-
0.00 – 11.30
“This is the most significant news story of the year.” – Jane Anson
– News breaks that Château Lafleur are leaving the Pomerol appellation from 2025 vintage.
– The reasons given why Château Lafleur are leaving.
– The five measures they wish the Pomerol AOC to adopt. -
11.31 – 22.21
“What is certain, they wouldn’t be doing this unless they believe they didn’t have any option." – Jane Anson
– Christian Moueix’s view on irrigation.
– The weather conditions for the 2025 harvest to date (end August).
Alexander Van Beek, Estate Director of Château Giscours and Tuscan estate Caiarossa.