▻ Omnibus XXIV

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Episode Summary:-

Here’s another news-filled edition of Omnibus, with our intrepid journalists, Elin McCoy, Jane Anson and John Stimpfig reporting on the major happenings in the wine world. First, and most welcome, a good-news story: John Stimpfig reports on the creation of the Old Vine Registry, at www.oldvineregistry.org, the world’s first crowd-sourced global database of living historic vineyard sites. It has launched with 2,200 vineyards from 29 countries. “The best way to support old vines is to buy the wines,” John says, and happily there are links on the registry as to where those wines can be found.

Sarah Kemp and John reflect on the life of Don St. Pierre Snr, who has just passed away at 82 years after a long illness. Don was the founder of ASC Fine Wine, China’s premier wine importer. He originally sold jeeps in China, but pivoted to wine when he realised the potential of the market. Along with his son, Don St. Pierre Jnr, they transformed China’s fine wine scene, and when the company was sold to Suntory, they represented 100 fine wines and employed 1,000 people. One of their accounts was Domaines Barons de Rothschild (Lafite), which is again in the news, as their Chair, Saskia de Rothschild, has just bought their first Burgundy estate, William Fèvre Chablis, from Artémis, owners of Château Latour. John and Sarah see it as a very smart move, especially as Nick Pegna, worldwide head of Sotheby’s wine department, has declared that Grand Cru Chablis is going to be the next hot thing on the fine wine scene.

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It wouldn’t be an Omnibus edition if we didn’t have a look at the weather and how the harvests are shaping up. Wildfires in Canada are causing concern, there’s drought in Languedoc Roussillon, while Italy is battling with downy mildew and predictions that it is going to be one of the lowest in terms of yields in the history of Italy. In SW France, there have been two waves of mildew in June and July, with Merlot most affected. On a cheerier note, Burgundy, Beaujolais and Champagne seem to be promising.

Also, there were tears aplenty at The Wine Conversation with the news that Le Gavroche is closing after 56 glorious years. John and Sarah reflect on the fine wine trade’s favourite restaurant and look back with huge affection on some of its legendary parties (and patrons).

Over in the US, Elin McCoy discusses the news that the giant E & J Gallo has bought up Rombauer Vineyards, and – to Sarah and Elin’s surprise – Massican, the boutique winery owned by Dan Petroski. Elin gives her thoughts on the two deals, and why each of the wineries was sold. She also reports on her discussion with Nick Pegna, the new head of Sotheby’s wine department, who tells her his plans, including why he thinks there might be a role for auctions in terms of new releases. “We are seeing at auction what people bought yesterday,” he says, so he is looking at what people are buying now.

Jane Anson talks to Sarah about the new September releases on the Bordeaux Place. Jane tasted the 100 wines released, which are distributed through the negociant system, though they are not made in Bordeaux and many do not have a link to a Bordeaux château. She discusses why the world’s great iconic wines are turning to the Place, and names some of her favourites, including a group of small Spanish producers which have been recommended by Telmo Rodriguez (full report on her subscription site, janeanson.com).

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Running Order:-

• 0.00 – 12.04

  “The best way to support old vines is to buy the wines.” – John Stimpfig
  
  – The launch of the old-vine registry.
  – Looking back on the life of Don St Pierre Snr of ASC Wines in China.
  – Domaines Barons de Rothschild (Lafite) buys William Fèvre Chablis from Artémis.

• 12.05 – 22.33

  “It seems as if the four horsemen of the Apocalypse are descending on the wine world.” – John Stimpfig
  
  – Weather watch – wildfires in Canada, downy mildew in Italy and SW France, drought in Languedoc Roussillon.
  – Le Gavroche is to close after 52 years.

• 22.34 – 43.19

  "Massican is an example of how difficult it is for a small brand to make enough money to keep going.” – Elin McCoy
  
  – Sale of Rombauer Vineyards and Massican to E & J Gallo.
  – Nick Pegna, Sotheby’s new head of wines, talks to Elin McCoy about his plans.

• 43.20 – 56.19

  “This has not been an easy year for the fine wine market.” – Jane Anson
  
  – Jane Anson discusses why iconic wines want to use the Bordeaux negociant system.
  – Jane’s favourite wines launching this September on the Bordeaux Place.

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▴ Old Vine Registry

▴ Le Gavroche

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Further Information:-

www.oldvineregistry.org

www.janeanson.com