▻ Omnibus XXI

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Episode Summary:-

What do Kylie Minogue, Our Lady of the Torrents and the collapse of Silicon Valley Bank have in common? They all feature in this month’s Omnibus, the monthly round- up of the world’s wine news. John Stimpfig reports that Kylie Minogue, the Australian pocket rocket superstar singer, has appeared at the world’s largest wine fair, Prowein, to promote her eponymous wine label, causing huge delight for her many male middle-aged wine-trade fans, and wall-to-wall coverage in the wine press. There have been several celebrities who have endorsed wine, but Kylie has impressed the wine trade by managing to sell 8 million bottles, and receive the critical endorsement of none other than Andrew Jefford… A major piece of wine news was the findings of a group of eminent scientists: 23 institutions in 16 countries collaborated on a paper which challenged the received wisdom that the wine grapes used for winemaking came from the Caucasus. They discovered, after testing 2,500 grapevine genomes, that 11,000 years ago, 3,000 years earlier than thought, they originated in the Levant.

Two big personnel changes have been announced. Michel Rolland, one of the world’s most influential consultants, is hanging up his consulting boots, and handing over to Julien Viaud, who has worked with Michel for 17 years. John discusses Rolland’s career and tells how the Pomerol Parish priest played a role in setting his path to becoming a major force in the international wine industry. The other news, which came as a shock to Elin McCoy and Sarah Kemp, was Axel Heinz leaving Ornellaia and Masseto to join Château Lascombes, the second-growth Margaux estate, which was bought last November by Lawrence Wine Estates. Elin and Sarah agree it was a great poach.

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Over in Argentina, the government is trying to help their domestic wine industry by introducing the “Malbec dollar.” Inflation is a massive problem for exports, so they are giving producers a preferential exchange rate to help. Over in the US, there are more financial problems aplenty. Elin reports on the collapse of Silicon Valley Bank, which affected 400 Northern California and Oregon producers. She reveals some of the wine producers’ nightmare stories when the bank collapsed, the second-largest bank failure in US history. And there’s more misery this month, with the news of the demise of the US’s famous wine store, Sherry-Lehmann, which has been closed down by the State Liquor Authority for not renewing its state liquor licence. A sad end to a famous store, where Andy Warhol used to sign the Mouton Rothschild labels he designed, and Harrison Ford was one of many celebrity customers.

There is one tasting you never turn down if you get an invitation: the pre-release of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti. Elin reports on the 2020 vintage, which was undertaken during the pandemic lockdown. It is a vintage of relaxed elegance, she reports, and declares that “the Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Montrachet is one of the greatest Chardonnay wines I have ever tasted in my life.” It was a bittersweet affair, as it was the first time Elin had attended which was without the presence of the much-beloved Aubert de Villaine, who, though still involved with the Domaine, isn’t travelling. Elin was pleased to report that under his nephew, Bertrand de Villaine, and co-owner Perrine Fénal, daughter of Lalou Bize-Leroy, the magic continues… Also being released this month in the US were Biondi-Santi’s latest releases. Elin describes their innovative story-telling initiative, La Voce di Biondi-Santi, where a QR code takes you to a specially commissioned short story. Sarah and Elin then reflect on how producers are looking at ways of making the wine experience part of cultural life for consumers. The news that the Duckhorn Group are releasing a series of Burgundy wines under the cult winery Kosta Browne label which specialises in Pinot Noir, which has Elin and Sarah discussing the use of brands to create interest in the same grape varieties from different locations. Elin’s final tasting was at New Central Tower, with a 360-degree view of Manhattan, the perfect glitzy setting for the second release of super-cuvée Rarity from Beaulieu Vineyards.

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Weather remains a constant theme on Omnibus, and John reports on the latest news from the Southern Hemisphere. In Argentina they are expecting one of the smallest crops in the last 20 years, due to the October frosts, Storm Gabrielle has affected the vintage in North Island in New Zealand, but the South Island appears to have escaped, Australia will have a below-average harvest, no bad thing due to the over-supply of grapes. South Africa will be down in volume, and despite the wildfires in parts of Chile there will be an average-size harvest.

In the Northern hemisphere, Italy has experienced a very dry winter, 53% less snow fell in the Alps, and the Piedmont is in the third year of drought. The South of France is also experiencing a water shortage, and in Spain there are prayers going up to Our Lady of the Torrents for rain. Better news currently comes from Bordeaux, Burgundy and Champagne which have seen rainfall, but still have several months to go before they are out of frost danger.

Finally, our intrepid contributing editor John Stimpfig is getting on his bike to help raise funds for Hospitality Action, a 200km bike ride across Bordeaux over two days with the Hatch Mansfield team. The first bicycle ride was in Burgundy and was organised by Pierre Henri Gagey of Louis Jadot along with Aubert de Villaine, Dominique Lafon and Jacques Seysses. It raised half a million euros. This year Châteaux Haut Bailly, Giscours and Lynch Bages are supporting the initiative, and John and the Hatch Mansfield team hope to raise £20,000. A link to fund John is below. We wish him well with his training and will be reporting back on his heroic attempt not to ruin his knees.

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Running Order:-

• 0.00 – 22.43

  “It puts the Levant on the map as the origins of Vitis Vinifera” – John Stimpfig
  
  – Kylie Minogue wows the wine industry at Prowein.
  – New research puts the origin of Vitis Vinifera in the Levant, not the Caucasus as previously thought.
  – Michel Rolland hangs up his wine consulting boots.
  – Argentina’s government issues the “Malbec dollar” to help wine exporters.

• 22.44 – 34.26

  “I’m praying for good weather in May” – John Stimpfig
  
  – Round-up of the Southern Hemisphere’s harvests.
  – Latest vintage developments from the Northern Hemisphere.
  – John Stimpfig’s charity bike-ride in Bordeaux this May for Hospitality Action.

• 34.27 – 56.40

  “It’s a great poach” – Elin McCoy on Axel Heinz going to Château Lascombes
  
  – How the collapse of Silicon Valley Bank affected California and Oregon winemakers.
  – Axel Heinz leaves Ornellaia and Masseto to head over to Château Lascombes.
  – Collapse of Sherry-Lehmann, the US iconic wine store.

• 56.41 – 01.13

  “It is one of the greatest Chardonnays I have ever tasted in my life” – Elin McCoy
  
  – Elin reports on the 2020 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti tasting.
  – Elin on the latest releases from Biondi-Santi.
  – Kosta Browne’s new range of Burgundy wines.
  – The latest release of Rarity from Beaulieu Vineyards.

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▴ Michel Rolland

▴ Axel Heinz

▴ Sherry Lehmann

▴ Hospitality Action

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Further Information:-

Sponsor John’s bike ride for Hospitality Action

Information about Vitis Vinifera

Science Journal Report