▻ The Connoisseur Week in Tuscany

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19 Jan

Written By Sarah Kemp

Sarah Kemp in conversation with Jane Anson

Episode Summary:-

One of the most exciting regions for fine wine today is Tuscany, declare Sarah Kemp and Jane Anson. In October last year, they spent a week visiting some of the region’s finest estates with 10 wine lovers, in the inaugural Tuscany Connoisseur Week. In this episode, they discuss how Tuscany has now become one of the most desirable regions for collectors. According to Liv-ex data, in the last five years the Italian index has outperformed both Bordeaux and Burgundy – proof that wine lovers are waking up to the extraordinary value their fine wines represent. According to Sophia Gilmour at Liv-ex, “I think Super-Tuscans fulfil a purpose that Bordeaux used to – exceptional ratings, high volume and prices that are just low enough to lend themselves to uncorking.”

When Sarah and Jane were looking at expanding the Connoisseur Week itinerary, there were many regions to choose from, and Jane explains, “we wanted to tell the story of contemporary Tuscany, and why we believe this region is so exciting.” It wasn’t always so, and Sarah pays tribute to David Gleave MW and the late Nick Belfrage MW, who pioneered the perception of Italian wine in the UK, and who were pivotal to its success today.

Sarah and Jane reflect on the week, which started with an unforgettable Sassicaia dinner hosted by Alessandro Berlingieri, President of Tenuta San Guido. Both have picked one of the wines served, the 1990 Sassicaia in magnum, as one of their wines of the year. The next morning, they headed off to meet wine legend Angelo Gaja and his son Giovanni at their Brunello property, Pieve di Santa Restituta, where they were treated to a lunch provided by Silene restaurant with an array of Brunello di Montalcino DOP Rennina, Brunello di Montalcino DOP Sugarille and Brunello di Montalcino DOP at an intimate lunch with a Tuscan feast by an open fire. Pieve di Santa Restituta was purchased in 1994, the Gaja’s family’s first venture since 1859 outside the Piedmont. (The Brunello di Montalcino Rennina DOP 2019 also made it onto Sarah’s wines of the year.)

A hard act to follow, but that evening, at dinner with Bibi Graetz in Fiesole, above Florence, at his home with his wife cooking, held more revelations. Jane describes why Bibi Graetz, a newcomer to the region, is so exciting. His wines have become a cult, and Jane reveals how this self-taught winemaker has changed his style, dialling back the oak and revealing more of the terroir that drives his wines.

An undoubted highlight of the week was lunch at the estate Sarah calls “one of the most beautiful vineyards I have ever seen,” Tignanello, with the man who is responsible for so much of the Italian quality-wine revolution, Marchese Piero Antinori. Sarah recounts how emotional she found it to be hosted by the man she had followed throughout her career, truly a living legend. Jane and Sarah discuss the wines served, and highlight a Guado al Tasso Vermentino, which they both immediately tracked down to put in their cellars.

More joy was to be had that evening at Fontodi, with Giovanni Manetti. As Jane commented, “Giovnanni Manetti couldn’t be a better ambassador for the region.” As President of the Consorzio Chianti Classico, he has steered over 500 producers through the changes that have brought such positive attention to the region. Both Sarah and Jane are huge Fontodi fans, and the 2016 and 2001 Flaccianello della Pieve thrilled the group. “I think he’s the face of modern Tuscany,” Jane continues.

To round out their journey around Tuscany, a trip to Bolgheri was necessary, and where better than Ornellaia, hosted by Technical Director, Marco Balsimelli. An Ornellaia vertical from 2022 to 2009, preceded a lunch prepared by the Michelin-starred La Pineta, and Sarah declared the Ornellaia Bianco 2022 with the fried octopus and orange served on a mild spicy mayonnaise as exemplary, a star match.

The final evening was celebrated at Dimora Ghirlandaio, the estate which had been reserved solely for the group during the week. A magical location, with an extraordinary history (Michelangelo used to visit, to paint there). The guest of honour was Marchese Franceso Mazzei, who poured three of Castello di Fonterutoli’s Gran Selezione wines, followed by Concerto di Fonterutoli 2021 (another of Sarah’s wines of the year) and Siepi 2007, all accompanying a white-truffle menu. Sarah and Jane, reminiscing over a long table with hundreds of candles flickering down its length: The magic of the Connoisseur Week in Tuscany couldn’t have a better finale.

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