▻ Giovanni Mazzei – The Next Generation

Let's Talk With

25 Jan

Written By Sarah Kemp

In conversation with Giovanni Mazzei

Episode Summary:-

Giovanni Mazzei belongs to the illustrious Mazzei family, whose Tuscan winemaking history goes back 600 years. His ancestors include Ser Lapo Mazzei, who wrote the first recorded mention of Chianti wine in 1398; his granddaughter, Madonna Smerlada, came into possession of the Fonterutoli estate in 1435. Elin McCoy talks to Giovanni in our Next Generation series, about growing up in a family which has been at the forefront of Tuscany’s quality movement, and how he persuaded his father and uncle to allow him to head up Ipsus, their new estate, which they bought in 2006. He tells Elin, “I wasn’t sure I was given the responsibility, I asked for it.”

“I always wanted to be a winemaker,” he notes, as he explains that both his parents’ families are involved in agriculture. His father, Filippo, insisted that before he joined the family company he needed to gain experience outside the business, so he worked in an events company, and became Italian brand manager for one of the biggest retailers in Hong Kong, which gave him a good understanding of retailers’ needs and the Asian market. In 2006 the owner of the Il Caggio estate was looking to sell, as he had no one to hand it on to, and the Mazzei family, seeing its extraordinary potential, bought it. Giovanni was entranced, as he found the quality of the Sangiovese second to none: “I love the pure red fruit, full of energy.”

He moved his wife and three young boys to the estate, and has dedicated himself to following his ambition to produce Italy’s greatest Sangiovese. He describes the soils over its 6.5 hectares, which consist of powerful blue clay schist with lots of alberese (limestone). The first vintage of Ipsus was 2015, and the only vintage which has not been released since the launch is the 2017. His family didn’t want to make 2017, due to the challenging conditions, but Giovanni insisted on making 1,000 bottles; while not released as yet, he believes he will gain knowledge from them as they mature.

He wants buyers of Ipsus to have a strong connection to the brand, and is working on offering experiences, tasting new vintages with him and his family at the estate, and potentially staying the night. Il Caggio is very much a family home and he believes this helps. “You do capture an amazing happy energy,” he says.

““I wasn’t sure I was given the responsibility, I asked for it.” ”

— Giovanni Mazzei

Ipsus is the highest price of all the Fonterutoli wines, but the estate is kept very separate, treated as an independent entity; 4,500 bottles are produced, and the wine is distributed in 60 countries, very much one case here, one case there. His ambition is to be fully independent in 2024 with the building of a vinification cellar (currently there is only an ageing cellar – the wine is currently made at Castello di Fonterutoli, which had the first gravity-fed cellar in Tuscany).

His most important mentor? Giovanni names his grandfather, a true gentleman who allied himself with nature and managed to have time for everyone. With his three young sons growing up surrounded by the vines, we can be assured that the next generation of Mazzeis will be as involved as their father.

Running Order:-

0.00 – 11.12

“I always wanted to be a winemaker.”

– The Mazzei family’s 600-year history of winemaking.
– Gaining experience in other fields before joining the family company.
– The family buy Il Caggio in 2006.
– The quality of Sangiovese at Il Caggio.
11.13 – 22.48

“I wasn’t sure I was given the responsibility, I asked for it.”

– The soils at Il Caggio.
– The first vintage released of Ipsus, 2015.
– Plans to create experiences for buyers of Ipsus.
– The price of Ipsus and its limited quantity.
– Giovanni’s greatest influence, his grandfather.