▻ The Michelin’s Grape Guide to Bordeaux

Let's Talk About

5 Oct

Written By Sarah Kemp

Sarah Kemp in conversation with Jane Anson

Episode Summary:-

Jane Anson, renowned Bordeaux expert and author of “Inside Bordeaux,” and Sarah Kemp discuss the new “Michelin Grape Guide to Bordeaux,” which has just been published. Michelin, known for its restaurant and hotel reviews, has expanded its range of recommendations to highlight wine estates across different regions of the world (beginning with Burgundy and Bordeaux). Instead of reviewing individual wines, their approach is to review wine estates, based on five criteria: quality of agronomy, technical mastery, identity, balance and consistency.

Three grapes are awarded to exceptional producers, whatever the vintage, two grapes are given to excellent producers who stand out as exceptional within their peer group and region for both quality and consistency; and one grape for very good producers who craft wines of character and style. In addition, there are “selected” producers who have been chosen for regular review, “producing well-made wines that deliver an experience quality.”

Jane and Sarah have many questions about the guide, with Sarah asking why Château Latour, a First Growth, did not appear, even among the “selected” producers. Jane reveals that a spokesperson for Michelin has stated that they hadn’t reached a “collegial decision” on Latour, which both Jane and Sarah find extraordinary, and ask why the guide was not delayed until this was reached, as it does not help the credibility of the guide to leave out one of the world’s most renowned wines.

While the guide may be noble in its aim, Jane asks how the reviewers (who are anonymous) could assess “the vitality of the soil, the balance of the vine stock as well as the care provided for the vines” without keeping track of all the vineyards. For Jane, this is the biggest credibility concern.

Sarah points out that while an anonymous reviewer can visit a restaurant or hotel, it is not possible to simply turn up at an estate without an appointment. Michelin has stated that the team reviewing the estates is separate from the team at The Wine Advocate, which they bought out in 2019.

Also, both agree that Michelin’s choice of starting with Burgundy and Bordeaux was not necessarily useful for consumers, as these are two areas where there is more thorough and long-standing guidance on them than any other. Jane is also disappointed that they didn’t choose areas which need a spotlight, such as the Rhṍne or Loire. And while there are some questions on why certain estates, such as Latour, Ducru-Beaucaillou and Climens were omitted, Jane is happy to see that estates like Vieux Château Certan had been awarded two stars.

Both agree that the guides will evolve, but for now they raise more questions than answers.