✒ Isole e Olena “Collezione Privata” Chardonnay
“It was not a wine I produced thinking of the market,” Paolo de Marchi told me at the first vertical tasting of Isole e Olena “Collezione Privata” Chardonnay, which was held recently at Chez Bruce in London.
Isole e Olena is located on the western slope of the Chianti Classico hills, halfway between Florence and Siena; it is famed for its nuanced Chianti Classico wines and its world-renowned flagship wine, Cepparello.
Paolo moved to the family estate in 1976, and found that the vineyards had been planted with no idea of quality. “When you start with problems, you start thinking,” he said as he smiled and explained how he decided to graft over the white varietals of Trebbiano and Malvasia used for blending in Chianti Classico to Chardonnay. “We had no time to experiment,” he laughed, recalling that when he planted the Chardonnay he had no idea that it would become so sought-after in its own right. Today it has such a following that it was decided to give the varietal its own moment in the sun, with a vertical tasting of six vintages. The vines are planted on limestone and clay soils, and the first Isole e Olena Chardonnay was produced in 1987. The hallmark for me of Isole e Olena’s Chardonnays is their creamy cashmere textures and limestone elegance. These are gourmet wines in every sense.
Wine Notes:-
Isole e Olena “Collezione Privita” Chardonnay 2021
A difficult vintage, with a mild winter, heavy rains in November and a wet Spring leading to a dry summer with some rain in August. The fruit comes from 5 hectares on the north-eastern side of the estate at 400 meters above sea level, with the vines being between 30-40 years old. Light golden-green in colour, an enticing mineral-driven nose: the style is reminiscent of Puligny-Montrachet, creamy texture with a core of intense stone fruit layered with fresh vibrant green notes, very structured and precise with a long, citric finish. 14%.
Isole e Olena “Collezione Privita” Chardonnay 2016
A mild winter with perfect temperatures during the Spring and Summer. The large diurnal temperature variation has given the 2016 vintage very defined aromatics. Antique gold in colour, the nose explodes with fresh aromas of stone fruit, on the palate there’s a deep core of apricots and white peach, mint and a creamy cashmere texture, very elegant with wonderful balance and precision. 14%.
Isole e Olena “Collezione Privita” Chardonnay 2015
A favourable vintage with a very wet winter that enabled the vines to access deep-seated water reserves. After fermentation in barrel, the wine remained on the lees in one-third new oak barrels for 10 months. During the first six months, the wine was stirred in the Burgundian style to give the wine more complexity. Floral nose, rich core of ripe white fruit, oak more obvious on this vintage than the others, full-bodied and still young. 13.5%.
Isole e Olena “Collezione Privita” Chardonnay 2014
A rainy vintage which was saved by a dry September and October, which allowed for a late harvest with short days and cool nights. The 2014 is outstanding, and my wine of the vertical. Mid-gold colour, fresh uplifted nose, there is wonderful lyrical movement in this wine as it waltzes across your palate. A kaleidoscope of flavours, a firm core of stone fruit, minerals, mint, white peach, orange blossom, hints of mandarin, a direct arrow of acidity drives through the wine. Beautifully balanced with a long finish, A truly world-class Chardonnay. 14%.
Isole e Olena “Collezione Privita” Chardonnay 2012
2012 started cool with virtually no rain until May and early June. Summer was hot and dry, with rain arriving in August to revive the vines. Deep golden colour, rich marmalade notes on nose, the wine shows the heat of the vintage with an intense core of citric confit, quince, hallmark creamy texture, full-bodied, slightly dry on finish. 13.5%.
Isole e Olena “Collezione Privita” Chardonnay 2011
A warm Spring brought early budding, summer was cool to start with, but improved by mid-August. Luminous gold in colour, richly aromatic, intense core of ripe peach, orange, grapefruit, hints of mint, remarkably fresh, with creamy velvet texture. Very gourmet with a long finish. 14%.
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Great to meet Emanuele Reolon, the new Estate Director of Isole e Olena at the River Café for the launch of the new vintages.