▻ Bolgheri with Nelson Pari and Federico Moccia

Let's Talk About

25 May

Written By Sarah Kemp

In conversation with Nelson Pari and Federico Moccia

Episode Summary:-

Bolgheri is home to some of Italy’s most famous names, including Tenuta San Guido Sassicaia and Ornellaia. Sarah Kemp talks to Italian experts Nelson Pari and Federico Moccia about what makes the region so special and why it is attracting so many dynamic young winemakers. Nelson is the Italian wine buyer for the independent wine merchant SWIG and author of the newsletter nelsonpari.substack.com, and Federico Moccia is the Head of Wine at 67 Pall Mall; they are both brand ambassadors for the region and recently held a tasting in London featuring 40 of Bolgheri’s 65 producers.

Federico begins by explaining that Bolgheri is a small area, 13km long and 7 km wide, near the Tuscan coast in the province of Livorno. The region was put on the international wine map by Mario Incisa della Rochetta of Tenuta San Guido Sassicaia who was a great fan of Bordeaux and planted Cabernet Sauvignon for family consumption. The superb quality of the wine attracted other famous names, including the Antinoris, Frescobaldis and Angelo Gaja.

Nelson explains the rules of the three DOCS: DOC Bolgheri Rosso, DOC Bolgheri Superiore and DOC Bolgheri Sassicaia. DOC Bolgheri Rosso can have 0-100% of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot or Cabernet Franc, 0-50% Syrah, 0-50% Sangiovese and up to 30% complementary grapes (Petit Verdot etc.). The wine may be sold only from the first of September after the harvest. DOC Bolgheri Superiore has the same rules as DOC Bolgheri Rosso for the grape percentages but the wine has to be aged at least 2 years, at least one year in barrel. For DOC Bolgheri Sassicaia, the grapes have to be grown in a specific area close to the town of Bolgheri, from a minimum of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon. The wine has to be aged at least 2 years, 18 months of which in barrique.

““We don’t talk about Super Tuscans anymore, we talk about Bolgheri.””

— Nelson Pari

One of the main influences on the region is the cooling breezes from the sea. The laws for blending are wide, which allows for lots of different blends and mono-varietals. Nelson explains the layout and terroir of Bolgheri. The main road is La Bolgherese, where many of the wineries are found, including Ornellaia. People refer to the Soprastrada (over the street) and the Sottostrada (down the street) as dividing lines. Below the street, towards the sea, the land has more sandy soils, whereas over the street it is more rocky.

Recently Nelson and Federico held a tasting with Jane Anson, comparing Bordeaux and Bolgheri wines. Federico describes the Bordeaux varietals grown in Bolgheri as having “more sunshine in the glass” and “being more fruit-driven.” He recommends the 2019 and 2020 vintages for laying down, and 2001, 2015 and 2016 as stellar vintages to watch out for. Sarah asks them to name five of their favourite producers (see “further information.”) What they both love most about Tuscany is the energy the young producers bring and their ability to support each other and work together. “What I love about this region is the quality bar is very high,” Nelson says “We don’t talk about Super Tuscans anymore, we talk about Bolgheri.”

Running Order:-

0.00 – 6.10

“We don’t talk about Super Tuscans anymore, we talk about Bolgheri." – Nelson Pari

– Where Bolgheri is situated, its size and the number of producers.
– When the DOCs were created.
– How Tenuta San Guido Sassacia made Bolgheri famous.
– The great names of Bolgheri.
6.11 – 19.39

“What I love about this region is the quality bar is very high.” – Nelson Pari

– The rules defining the three DOCs; DOC Bolgheri Rosso, DOC Bolgheri Superiore, DOC Bolgheri Sassicaia.
– The terroir of Bolgheri.
– The main influences on the terroir.
– The flavour profile of Bordeaux varieties in Bolgheri.
19.40 – 33.56

“There’s a great amount of young guns coming in and doing such a great job.” – Federico Moccia

– Which vintages to drink now and which vintages to lay down.
– Nelson Pari’s and Federico Moccia’s favourite wineries.
– What Nelson and Federico love most about Bolgheri.