▻ Omnibus XXIII
Episode Summary:-
In an extended episode of Omnibus, we cover a very busy month of news, including some surprising major deals, Bordeaux 2022 pricing, the FBI investigating fraud at Sherry-Lehmann, the departure to the cellar in the sky of some of the wine world’s great names, the awards for the best vineyards to visit and, of course, the monthly weather watch.
Sarah has been busy too, as she tells John Stimpfig about her ten days of whirlwind wine trips. First to Gorgona, where Marchese Lamberto Frescobaldi is helping the prisoners at the penitentiary on the island learn new skills, tending grapevines and making a wine from Vermentino and Ansonica; then she presided over the Royal Opera House Wine Gala dinner and auction (co-sponsored with The Wine Conversation), which raised around £200,000 to support artists and educational outreach programs for The Royal Opera House Foundation. This was followed by joining Jane Anson in Bordeaux to host the second edition of The Connoisseur Week. All proof that great wine gives you extra energy.
Sadly, we have lost several great wine personalities recently. John and Sarah reflect on the life of Jean-Michel Cazes, owner of Château Lynch-Bages, and Bordeaux’s finest ambassador – one of the wine world’s greats, they conclude. Also lost this month, Jackie Blot, the admired Loire producer, and Sarah Morphew MW, the first woman Master of Wine, who fell in love with wine whilst an 11-year-old in Madeira. She wrote to the Symington family to ask for a job (she was at school with two Symington sisters) and was told “in our opinion, the wine trade is no place for a woman,” which only spurred her on. Then, Elin McCoy looks back on the life of Alexander Lur Saluces, who ran Château d’Yquem for 36 years, and Paul Dolan, the pioneer of the US organic and biodynamic movement. All five left a significant mark on the wine world, and will be much missed.
The replacement for Jamie Ritchie at Sotheby’s has been announced, Nick Pegna, ex-Berry Brothers, has taken up the role--a great choice, Sarah and John agree. Also, the OIV has appointed its first Southern Hemisphere director in their 99-year history: Dr John Baker, from New Zealand, and Cyril Brun has left Charles Heidsieck to move to Italy and join the Trentino sparkling house of Ferrari Trento.
Bordeaux 2022 is next, and John’s verdict is… a fairly mixed campaign. He discusses the prices and how they drifted up toward the end. Sarah and John’s advice is to look at the price in comparison to other stellar vintages such as 2016, and be cool-headed about buying this vintage, even though it has been highly praised. John then looks into the news that Accolade, Australia’s second-largest wine company, is selling off one of its crown jewels, The House of Arras. Regarding their balance sheet, he ponders what’s next for this group, which owns 50 wineries.
Weather watch: Chile has seen floods in Maule and Bio Bio, but luckily after the harvest, Emilia Romagna has had six months’ worth of rain in three days, with considerable flooding, as after long periods of drought the land could not absorb the water; now, mildew is a concern. New York’s Finger Lakes had a late Spring frost, and wildfires in Canada are out of control. The wildfires haven’t affected the grapes yet, as they are too small, but if not brought under control, the fires will cause concern. Overall, smoke taint may affect vineyards in Canada, Washington State and Northeast Oregon, all the more reason why wineries should sign up to the International Wineries for Climate Change initiative. Currently, 41 wineries are involved, pledging to reduce their carbon emissions, but obviously more are needed. Miguel Torres is spearheading the organisation, and Sarah and John voice a hope that more will join this important group.
In the US Elin McCoy reveals that the Jackson Family Wines has invested in Britain, and bought a vineyard in Crouch Valley, Essex, the first UK investment by a US company. She discusses how Barbara Banke, Jess Jackson’s widow, who heads up the organisation, is a dynamic powerhouse. They are looking to make still wine, rather than the sort of sparklers that England has been known for, and are excited about the wines’ potential, comparing them to the Cote D’Or. The other major wine-acquisition news is that the Frescobaldi family have invested in Oregon, buying Domaine Roy et Fils in the Willamette Valley. A surprise, but if you know Marchese Lamberto Frescobaldi, maybe not, Sarah and Elin think.
The FBI and Sherry Lehmann was not a linkage we ever thought we would be writing about, but here it is: The FBI have raided the iconic wine store in Manhattan, and we will be following this story closely, looking beyond the headlines, as it unfolds.
From the Napa Valley comes the news that Haynes Vineyard, which had previously only sold its grapes, is to make its own wine. Why is it news? Well, the vineyard, which is situated in the Coombsville appellation of the Napa Valley, is owned by Gaylon Lawrence, owner of Heitz Cellars and Château Lascombes. The top Chardonnay will sell for US $250, making it one of California’s most expensive Chardonnays. They believe the wine can be compared to a Grand Cru of Burgundy. Another launch which caught Elin’s attention is Ruinart’s Blanc Singulier, which is their first new cuvee in 20 years. The wine is meant to express the ever-changing climate – the first climate-change Champagne. Is this going to be a trend, Elin wonders.
Where to go in the wine world? The answer may be in the list of the 50 Top Vineyards to Visit Awards, organised by the company behind the Top Restaurant Awards. The Number One spot was taken by Catena Zapata in Argentina, which offers wine lovers the chance to play master blender, eat in their fabulous restaurant, and pair wine and music. Elin and Sarah agree it is a worthy winner, but Elin does question the judging method and the fact that the judges are anonymous.
Running Order:-
-
0.00 – 17.15
“In our opinion the wine trade is no place for women.” – Old letter from the Symingtons to Sarah Morphew, first MW.
– Sarah Kemp reflects on her trip to Gorgona, the Royal Opera House Wine Gala and Connoisseur Week.
– John Stimpfig and Sarah look back on the life of Jean-Michel Cazes.
– Remembering Jackie Blot, Loire vigneron, and Sarah Morphew, first female MW.
– Cyril Brun joins Ferrari Trento.
– Nick Pegna joins Sotheby’s.
– First Southern Hemisphere director for the OIV, Dr John Baker. -
17.15 – 36.70
“A fairly mixed campaign with some confusing prices.”
– The Bordeaux 2022 campaign pricing reviewed.
– Accolade Wines sells House of Arras.
– Weather watch: Chile, Emilia Romagna, Finger Lakes and Northern US and Canada.
– Miguel Torres urges wineries to join International Wineries for Climate Action. -
36.71 – 55.30
“Fraud – always something ever-present in the wine world, sadly.”
– Elin McCoy looks back on the lives of Alexandre Lur Saluces and Paul Dolan.
– Jackson Family Wines invests in Essex vineyard in the UK.
– Frescobaldi invests in Oregon.
– FBI raid Sherry Lehmann. -
55.31 – 01.16
“He is ready to put this wine against the top crus of Burgundy.”
– Haynes Vineyard launch own wines.
– Champagne Ruinart’s new wine, based on climate change.
– “Top 50 Vineyards to Visit” awards.
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Keep up with our adventures in wine
News and views aplenty in this month’s Omnibus, good, bad and damn frightening. Great wine and art in Provence, Bollinger’s new launches, exciting award-winning Chinese wines, Old Vine Hero Awards, Mouton Cadet for Gen Z, and the annual conversation about En Primeur prices plus climate change predictions (spoiler very frightening). Brought to you by our Founder Sponsor Santa Rita Estates