▻ Omnibus Twentieth Edition

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Episode Twenty – sponsored by D.O. Rueda

(click here for some amazing facts on this fascinating region)

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Episode Summary:-

In this month’s edition of Omnibus, John Stimpfig and Elin McCoy report on the latest news from the ever-surprising world of wine. We cover the latest wine heists, a big EU bust-up over wine labelling (spoiler alert – it’s not with the UK for once), the rise of Vinexpo Paris, Moet Hennessy’s latest purchase of another Provence Rosé estate, and look back at the lives of Donald Hess, Michael Martini, and Terry Leighton of Kalin Cellars, who all passed away recently.

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First up, John reports back from Paris, where he attended the Vinexpo Paris show, which he declares was a huge success, and wonders “will it rival the giant Prowein?” Then, remaining in Paris, we congratulate Latvian sommelier Raimonds Tomsons, who was crowned the ASI Best Sommelier of the World 2023 in front of 4,000 spectators in the city this month, beating 68 other sommeliers from around the world. Unfortunately, there’s also bad news, as John reports on the growing trend of wine fraud and stealing fine wine to order. Five people have been arrested in Bordeaux for passing off bulk Spanish wine as wine of French origin. Two of the culprits have been jailed, not surprising when you hear that they fraudulently made 4.6 million bottles. In Austria, there have been a spate of robberies; the most notable was of 700 bottles stolen from Austrian wine merchant Kracher Fine Wine: the wines included Châteaux Lafite and Latour, and Harlan Estate. Other Austrian wine merchants have been targeted as well, though not so spectacularly. In Norway, too, there have been thefts, with Park 29 restaurant in Oslo losing over £100,000 worth of fine wine to thieves. In each case, the thieves knew what they were looking for – it appears they are stealing to order.

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On a more cheery note, John and Sarah are very impressed with the news that some dedicated Burgundy lovers have camped in tents in the freezing cold for a month outside Vinmonopolet, Norway’s state alcohol retailer, in order to secure their allocation of Burgundy. The retailer, based in Oslo, has set up tents for those willing to sleep outside, as in Norway there is no allocation system – it’s first come, first serve. On offer are DRC and over 500 different wines, and with set margins from the monopoly, Norwegian wine lovers are happy to queue up for weeks.  

In Britain, we are used to arguments with the EU, but the latest row brewing is in the family, as it were, between Ireland and its fellow member states. The Irish Department of Health is proposing putting mandatory health warnings on wine labels warning of the dangers of drinking and cancer. Italy, France, Spain, and Portugal are furious, and see the dangers of setting this precedent. Meanwhile, over in Canada, national guidelines have changed, now advising people not to drink more than two glasses a week. Sarah and John discuss the ramifications for the wine industry.

And of course, no Omnibus would be complete without a weather watch. John reports on the dreadful news coming from the North Island of New Zealand, where Cyclone Gabrielle hit on February 12th for four days, bringing devastation to the Hawke’s Bay region and Gisborne, which represent 12% of New Zealand’s production. Eleven people have lost their lives and thousands of people remain missing.

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Over in the US, our US Editor Elin McCoy looks back on the lives of three of the US’s most prominent vintners who died recently, Donald Hess, Michael Martini and Terry Leighton, all of whom contributed greatly to California’s reputation. Also, as ever on top of her game, Elin broke the story of how Moet Hennessy has bought another Provence estate Château Minuty, adding to their Provence Rosé portfolio of Château Galoupet and majority shares in Château d’Esclans of Whispering Angel fame. Sarah and Elin discuss how Rosé is no longer a fad, and how the big players believe they must have it in their portfolio.

The Naples, Florida Wine Auction raised a record-breaking US $26 million, with spectacular wine experiences for ardent wine lovers. Elin describes the lots which went for a million dollars, including seven days and evenings visiting the Antinori estates, and a trip around Piedmont with Napa vintners Garen and Shari Staglin. Then, a major piece of news coming out of the Napa Valley is that the 17-year controversial environmental battle over the 2,300-acre Walt Ranch on Atlas Peak has been resolved. The Halls, who bought the property in 2005, have agreed to gift 25% of the property to the Napa’s Land Trust, with the Trust buying the other 75%. Elin believes this a good outcome.

Weather watch from the Americas is a mixed affair. Good news from California where the unseasonal rains of January and February have brought an end to the long dry spell, with reservoirs full again, and all before bud break (it’s also snowing all over California right now, maybe another piece of good timing.) Down south in Chile, wildfires have ripped through the regions of Itata and Bio Bio, devastating some of Chile’s oldest vineyards. Elin recommends visiting Amanda Barnes’s website www.southamericawineguide.com for the latest news, and where to donate to help vintners who have lost everything.

Elin’s final item is the news that some of the wine world’s most famous names, such as Roederer, Egon Muller, Château Cos d’Estournel, and Graham’s Port, to name a few, are issuing NFTS on the new wine NFT platform www.winechain.co. Elin and Sarah agree that this is certainly one new platform to watch.

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Running Order:-

• 0.00 – 17.15

  “We’d like to give these Norwegian wine lovers a medal, it’s exactly what Wine Conversation listeners should be doing” – Sarah Kemp
  
  – The success of Vinexpo Paris.
  – ASI Best Sommelier of the World 2023 – Raimonds Tomsons.
  – Wine fraud in Bordeaux.
  – Fine wine thefts in Austria and Norway.
  – Norway wine enthusiasts’ queue for Burgundy releases for a month in tents.

• 17.15 – 22.28

  Sponsored by D.O. Rueda
  
  – John and Sarah discuss the different styles of the wines of Rueda.

• 22.29 – 31.16

  “This could go to the World Health Organisation or the EU Court of Justice” – John Stimpfig
  
  – Irish Department of Health propose health warning labels on wine.
  – Canada revises national health guidelines to 2 glasses a week.
  – Cyclone Gabrielle devastates Hawke’s Bay and Gisborne wineries in New Zealand.

• 31.17 – 48.46

  “I think we will see a huge push to convince the Chinese that they should be drinking Rosé” – Elin McCoy
  
  – Elin McCoy looks back on the lives of Donald Hess, Michael Martini and Terry Leighton.
  – Moet Hennessy buys Château Minuty in Provence and extends its investment in the Rosé category.
  – The Naples Florida Wine Auction raises 26 million dollars.
  – The million-dollar lots at the auction.

• 48.47 – 1.02

  “Napa Valley has had a great win for the environment” – Elin McCoy
  
  – The Walt Ranch controversy in Napa is finally settled after 17 years.
  – Rainfall is welcomed in California as it ends the dry period.
  – The devastating fires in Chile’s Bio Bio and Itata.
  – The big wine names joining the new NFT wine platform winechain.co.

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Recommended Wines from Rueda – Sponsored by D.O. Rueda

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Tres Pilares, Verdejo Rueda 2021
Bodega Tres Pilares was founded by three brothers in 2013. The family had farmed and owned vineyards for half a century in Rueda. This 100% Verdejo is their entry-level wine with pale colour, nice grassy aromatics, crisp acidity and moderate structure. Good dry flinty fruit with white peach, granny smith and a pleasing touch of pithy herbaceousness on the finish. Altogether, a well-made wine showing good typicity, some complexity and plenty of pleasure. 13% screwcap. Drink now up to the end of 2024. €8.35 Vivino

Protos Verdejo Cuvee Rueda 2021
Founded in 1927 Protos built its winery in Rueda for their Protos Verdejo in 2006, their 2019 vintage won “Best young wine in Spain” by the Gourmet Guide. The 2021 vintage comes from 15-year-old vineyards with gravel soils. On the nose spring blossom and citric fruits, there is good weight to the core which shows stone fruit and flint, it has great energy and freshness, and has a delightful saline dry finish. 13% Cork Drink now and for next two years.£10.95 - £13.49 Vinvm.co.uk haywines.co.uk

Cuatras Rayas Longverdejo Vinedos Centenarios 2020
Cuatro Rayas is one of Rueda’s oldest and most forward-thinking co-operatives. The grapes have been carefully selected from seriously old ‘centenarian’ Verdejo vines. Fragrant stone fruits on the nose continue on the palate with peach, quince and fennel. The acidity and polished texture give weight and gravitas. There’s also a lovely savoury component, partly from the lees ageing. It’s another good example of Rueda’s more serious side and a wine that not only works well with food but will also age. 13% Drink now and for the next two years. £11.58 Vinatis.co.uk

Vina Lisonja Sauvignon Blanc, Rueda 2021 
Intensely floral grassy-gooseberry aromatics on the nose. Good, zippy acidity and plenty more gooseberries and passion fruit on the off-dry palate. This is unashamedly a ‘New World’ style Sauvignon Blanc with overtones of New Zealand’s Marlborough region. Though not overly complex, it does come at an attractive and competitive price.

Castello de Medina Sauvignon Blanc, Rueda 2021
Green gold tones, bright attractive herbal and cut grass aromas. On the palate crisp granny smith apples, touch of caraway,  good texture and weight. 13% Cork Drink now until 2024. £12.50 Worsleyfinewines.co.uk

Finca Tresolmos Verdejo Lias, Rueda 2021
Winemaker Reyes Martinez-Sagarra has been working in Rueda for more than a decade and is one of the leading lights of the region’s new generation. Working with old Verdejo vines on sandy soils at 700m, this single vineyard wine has plenty to say for itself. The attractive nose has bright greengage and citrus notes. The palate has mid-weight structure, nice mouthfeel and balanced acidity – all of which works well alongside the flint, apple and stone fruit flavours. The lees influence is also well judged and gives an elegant, moreish, saline finish. 13.5% Drink now and for the next 1-2 years. £11.83 Vinissimus.co.uk

Finca La Cantera, PITA, Rueda, 2018
Proof positive of Verdejo’s ability to age and improve – especially in the hands of a skilled and passionate winemaker such as Emilio Pita at Finca La Cantera. The organic grapes come from chalky soils to the south of region and are grown at altitude. There is lots going on here with subtle, well-integrated oak giving texture, complexity and depth to the wine. Five years on the acidity is softening just a little, but still holding up together with lovely melon, pear and greengage fruit. It ends on a high with a dry, savoury finish. This will continue to give pleasure for another two years. 13%. Drink now and for the next two years. €24.50 bodeboca.com

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▴ Episode sponsored by D.O. Rueda

▴ Raimonds Tomsons

▴ Donald Hess

▴ Château Minuty

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Further Information:-

For information on Chile’s wildfires go to Amanda Barnes's site www.americanwineguide.com

To help winemakers in Hawke’s Bay – Hawke’s Bay Winegrowers Charitable Trust: www.hawkesbaywine.co.nz
HBW Charitable Trust
Number 02-0700-0005785-025
Reference HBWGRF Please use this code, your name, and mobile number.