▻ Omnibus Fourteenth Edition

Omnibus Edition

16 May

Written By Sarah Kemp

Episode Fourteen

Episode Summary:-

Sometimes it is hard to believe that we live on just one planet. In Omnibus 14, we continue to report on the effect of the war on Ukraine’s wine industry, as well as how it has affected other wine-producing countries. (For example, who knew that 25% of Asti Spumante sales were exported to Russia, Belarus and Ukraine?) Over in the US, Elin McCoy reports on the first US$1,000 tasting tour, at Heitz Cellars; she is not impressed and hopes this is not the direction Napa Valley is going in. Back in Europe, En Primeur is happening, and Jane Anson gives her first thoughts on the 2021 Bordeaux vintage. Also, Aubert de Villaine is retiring, Prince Robert of Luxembourg’s private cellar is up for auction at Sotheby’s in New York (probably the most important fine-wine sale in 2022), weather-unpredictability persists, and more news and views.

First up, John Stimpfig reads a first-hand report from Evgenia Nikolaychuk, sommelier and one of the authors of the Guide to Good Wine magazine, as well as an owner of a Ukrainian wine-bar chain The report appeared on www.jancisrobinson.com, which has been running a brilliant Free for All series of posts called “Letters from Kyiv.” John reads out her post where she talks about how there is a shortage of staff as men have either volunteered for the army or left the country. Many are too afraid to go to work, as the Russians are shooting at civilian cars on the highways. The Gostomel glass factory has been destroyed, leading to a lack of bottles, warehouses with fine wine have been destroyed, and many wineries have been damaged or destroyed. Despite the harrowing and terrible stories, she also highlights some quite inspiring ones, including how the Kolonist winery meets and hosts people who try to cross the border with Moldova, offering them warm drinks and food. Employees of the company 46 Parallel, in cooperation with restaurants, provide hot meals to territorial defence and refugee centres. She concludes, “War is the worst thing that can happen to humanity. But we believe that very soon you will be able to see the letter V on the labels of Ukrainian wines of the 2022 vintages, which will mean victory”.

The impact on wine in the region is even more widespread. Georgia and Moldova export over 70% of their wine to Russia and Ukraine, and the war has meant a collapse in these markets. The main European countries are affected too, with 40 million bottles of Asti Spumante heading to Russia, Ukraine and Belarus. While Asti Spumante is not sanctioned due to its lower value, the collapse of the rouble, the inability of the Russians to pay due to the banning of SWIFT banking transactions, and major transportation difficulties has John wondering what is going to happen to all this wine?

John then talks about wine-industry changes elsewhere, citing the great contribution of Alain Graillot, one of the best known names of Crozes Hermitage, who has died at the age of 87. and discusses the implications of the retirement of one of the wine world’s most respected figures, Aubert de Villaine of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti. Two other significant retirements are Ian Harris OBE of the Wine and Spirit Education Trust, who took the organisation from a UK-centric small organisation to a world-wide global wine education phenomenon, with 800 centres in 73 countries. Another important institution is The Wine Society, which has become one of the country’s most beloved retailers; Sebastian Payne, its head wine buyer (who has been with the company for 49 years) has finally walked away from the company spittoon. John and Sarah talk about his brilliant palate and his equal enthusiasm for classics and newcomers alike.

And then, as so often, it wouldn’t be a Wine Conversation podcast without a mention of the weather, and early frosts have arrived again in France. On 3rd and 4th April minus 9 degrees was reported in Champagne, minus 7 degrees in Bordeaux and minus 6 degrees in Chablis. It’s a little too early to say how this will affect the vines, but it is not seen as being as bad as last year, as the frost was shorter and less intense. Sarah and John agree it is problem that producers are going to have to grapple with, as it isn’t going away.

In Bordeaux, Jane Anson is in the middle of tasting the 2021 vintage. She says, “It was a complicated season, it’s important not to bring your preconceptions to the table when you taste the wine.” However, even two-thirds of the way through tasting the wines, she confirms it is not a blanket success. “You are seeing a lot more of cool-climate flavours. This is not a year of exuberance.” Pricing En Primeur relies on four things, she says: the reputation of the vintage, the reputation of the château, how the château is doing in the market, and the wider global context. She predicts that because of low yields and a shortage of wines, prices will stay close to last year’s, despite the vintage not being seen as on the same level.

Elin McCoy reports from the US that the Napa Valley has just seen its first US$1,000 tasting tour at Heitz Cellars. Elin says, “I find the idea of a thousand-dollar tasting experience, with all that is going on in the world today, to be a little bit vulgar.” Sarah agrees. Moving on, winery consolidation continues, with Constellation, the giant group which owns Robert Mondavi Winery, buying up Larry Stone’s Lingua Franca, where Dominque Lafon is the winemaking consultant. Washington State also hit the headlines, with Jackson Family Wines buying a 61-acre vineyard in Walla Walla from Abeja winery to add to their portfolio of wines in the US, Australia, Chile, France, Italy and South Africa. Elin sees it as a vote of confidence in Washington State, which despite producing outstanding reds, does not command the same prices as California.

And speaking of California, there are 18 wineries celebrating their 50th anniversary this year; 1972 was the beginning of the boutique wine movement, and Elin advice is to look out for many special promotions from Chateau Montelena, Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars, Clos du Val, Jordan and Silver Oaks. Elin is particularly amused by Silver Oak’s anniversary promotion, a special beer brewed in Silver Oaks barrels. Then, she goes on to mention a mystery: “Part of the joy of wine is you never stop learning,” says Elin. Her new discovery is Cabernet Pfeffer, a grape which is not related to either Cabernet Sauvignon or Cabernet Franc. Esther Mobley, the senior wine writer on the San Francisco Chronicle newspaper, first brought it to Elin’s attention. There are only 15 acres of it in California and UC Davis researchers found that it is Mourtaou, a virtually extinct grape from southwest France. How did it get to California, who planted it? Elin is intrigued, and so are we; stay tuned.

““One of the great pleasures of wine is you will never know everything, you will never know all the grape varieties, and that is why it is such a fascinating subject for so many people.” ”

— Elin McCoy

Sotheby’s have just released their annual report with the news of another great year of sales, US$132 million dollars from 53 sales. It wouldn’t be surprising if they top this in 2023, as on May 21st they are auctioneering the personal cellar of Prince Robert of Luxembourg, owner of Châteaux Haut-Brion and La Mission Haut-Brion. The catalogue is dazzling, with large-format bottles of both Haut-Brion and La Mission Haut-Brion, bottles from the early 1900s, and first growths in magnums. The sale is also in a good cause: The proceeds will benefit The PoIG Foundation, which was established to help and find a cure for patients suffering from a rare, degenerative PolG-related mitochondrial disease, a condition their young son Frederik was diagnosed with. Sarah believes it will be the sale of the year, and with its pristine provenance, a major event for wine collectors.

We end as we began, back to Ukraine. Elin reports on some of the wine activities taking place in the US to help raise funds for the people of Ukraine, and urges people to give generously. This month’s montage of the fascinating world of wine is, typically, illuminating and wide-ranging, always offering so much to talk about.

Running Order:-

0.00 – 14.40
“War is the worst that can happen to humanity, but we believe you will soon be able to see the letter V on the label of the Ukrainian wines of the 2022 vintage, which will mean victory.”– Evgenia Nikolaychuk

– John Stimpfig reports on how the war is affecting the wine industry in Ukraine.
– The international wine industry’s fund-raising efforts to help the people of Ukraine.
– How neighbouring wine-producing countries are being affected.
– How European exports to Russia and Ukraine are being affected.
14.41 – 28.09
“Frost is a problem that producers are going to have to grapple with”– John Stimpfig

– The return of the virtual wine show.
– A tribute to Alain Graillot of Crozes Hermitage, who has died aged 87.
– The retirement of Aubert de Villaine of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti.
– The retirements of Ian Harris of WSET and Sebastian Payne of The Wine Society.
– Spring frosts in France.
28.10 – 37.53
“You are seeing a lot more cool-climate flavours. This is not a year of exuberance.”– Jane Anson

– Jane gives her first impression of the 2021 Bordeaux vintage.
– Jane discusses the difficult conditions the producers faced.
– Jane explains how the Bordeaux châteaux price En Primeur.
– Jane predicts similar prices to 2020, despite a less successful vintage.
37.54 – 56.36
“I find the idea of a thousand-dollar tasting experience, with all that is going on in the world today, to be a little bit vulgar.”– Elin McCoy

– Elin reports on the first US$1,000 tasting experience at Heitz Cellars in the Napa Valley.
– The US wine industry continues to consolidate, with Constellation buying Lingua Franca, and Jackson Family Wines buying 61 acres in Walla Walla from Abeja Winery.
– The class of 1972 in California – 18 wineries celebrate their 50th anniversary.
– Cabernet Pfeffer – A new (and old) grape discovery.
56.37 – 01.04
“Wouldn’t you like to taste a 1918 Château Haut Brion?”– Elin McCoy

– The 2021 Sotheby’s market report on wine.
– The upcoming sale on May 21st at Sotheby’s in New York of Prince Robert of Luxembourg’s personal cellar.
– The US wine industry raises money for Ukraine.