▻ Marcheses Filippo and Francesco Mazzei

Let's Talk With

27 Feb

Written By Sarah Kemp

In conversation with Marcheses Francesco and Filippo Mazzei of Castello di Fonterutoli

Episode Summary:-

The Mazzei family, of Castello di Fonterutoli, have been making wine in Tuscany for more than 600 years. Sarah Kemp goes there to meet the current generation, Marchese Francesco and Marchese Filippo Mazzei, to talk about the renaissance of Chianti, and their Super Tuscan “Concerto di Fonterutoli,” which has just celebrated its 40th anniversary. Francesco Mazzei explains how Chianti was going in the wrong direction in the 1970s, and how the introduction of Cabernet Sauvignon into the blend with Sangiovese gave the wine more power and complexity. Concerto di Fonterutoli, was one of the very first Super Tuscans, its first vintage being 1981. It was an immediate success, sales went wild; Francesco says “It was a turning point for Fonterutoli, a milestone in where we are now.” Despite its huge success, Francesco and Filippo’s father decided to withdraw the wine from the market, as in his role as President of the Consorzio, he felt the focus should be on super Chianti Classico, not Super Tuscans. The purchase of a new vineyard in 2006 at higher altitude but similar soil led to Concerto returning to the market.

““Chianti Classico has changed dramatically in a positive sense, and this is due to the Super Tuscans.” ”

— Francesco Mazzei

Today, there is a new category in Tuscany, Gran Selezione: the rules do not allow non-indigenous grapes in the blend. How does that fit with the success of the Super Tuscans? “I think that what has been achieved with the Gran Selezione has a lot to be paid to the Super Tuscans. The Super Tuscans were a laboratory, a new wave of making wine,” Francesco says, “Chianti Classico has changed dramatically in a positive sense, and this is due to the Super Tuscans.”

The biggest changes have been in the vineyard. “Now we rely 100 percent on pruning, most of the results are the way you prune the vines.” Francesco explains how the new gravity cellar designed by his sister has also given them more flexibility, and that they have changed from Bordeaux coopers for barrels to Burgundy coopers, which he feels suits the Sangiovese grape better. Overall, the Chianti 2000 project has benefited the whole appellation, and the results are now being seen in the glass.

Francesco’s brother Filippo reflects on how the image of Chianti changed with the Super Tuscans, and now Gran Selezione. He puts it down to people actually tasting the wine, and the network of distribution also changing. Young people are much more open to change, he feels: “Young sommeliers have a different perspective.” He is impressed by how the vines are standing up to climate change, and notes that the 2022 vintage is a good example, with the vines remaining green, despite the drought – after the replanting in the 1970s, better clones of Sangiovese were responsible for the increase in quality. Today, there are wines which can age beautifully, and while neighbours may have different visions, the ambition is the same – to make truly great wines.

Running Order:-

0.00 – 22.55

“I think what has been achieved with the Gran Selezione has a lot to be paid to the Super Tuscans. Super Tuscans were a laboratory for a new wave, a new way of making wine.” – Marchese Francesco Mazzei

– Marchese Franceco Mazzei relates the changes in Chianti since the 1970s.
– Planting Cabernet Sauvignon and creating a blend with Sangiovese to create Concerto di Fonterutoli.
– Reaction to the Super Tuscans in the 1980s.
– How the market reacted to the release of Concerto di Fonterutoli.
– Decision to withdraw Concerto from the market by Francesco and Filippo’s father.
– Super Tuscans and Gran Selezione, how they co-exist.
– Changes in viticulture and the cellar.
22.56 – 37.50

“Young people, young sommeliers have different perspectives.” – Marchese Filippo Mazzei

– How the image of Tuscany changed.
– The role of young people and sommeliers in changing the image of Chianti.
– The effect of climate change on the vineyards of Tuscany.
– The ability of Sangiovese to age.