▻ The 1855 Classification with Jane Anson

10 Minute Masterclass

13 Feb

Written By Sarah Kemp

In conversation with Jane Anson

Episode Summary:-

In the second of our series “10 Minute Masterclass - with Jane Anson” Sarah Kemp quizzes Jane on Bordeaux’s 1855 classification, which Jane describes as “the world’s first culinary ranking”. Jane explains how Napoleon III, Emperor of France, wanted to impress the world by holding an Exposition Universal in Paris to showcase the best of French produce and improve the country’s image which had suffered since the French Revolution 60 years previously.

The 1855 classification was not decided on a tasting but by the prices achieved by the châteaux over a period of time. Five Bordeaux brokers who held the historical data divided the rankings into five growths (or crus). To be a First growth a château had to have been sold at 3,000 francs a tonneau, second growth, 2500- 2700 francs a tonneau, third growth 2100 to 2400 francs a tonneau, fourth growth 1800 to 2100 francs a tonneau and fifth growth 1400 to 1600 francs a tonneau. A tonneau contains 900 litres or 4 barrels.

There have been two changes since the classification was put in place. The first was Château Cantemerle which was left off the original list as the wine had been sold directly to the Netherlands and only had been through the negociant system for a couple of years. Cantemerle’s determined owner Caroline de Villeneuve marched into the Bordeaux Chamber of Commerce and demanded her wine was included as it was sold for a high price. Her approach paid off and it was included that September as a fifth growth (Jane describes how it is written into the May 1855 classification document in different handwriting). The other change was in 1973 when Château Mouton Rothschild was promoted from a second to first growth.

Jane explains that the 1855 classification was for the name of the estate and that châteaux are in their right to buy more land, providing it is in their appellation. She gives examples of how some of the estates have expanded, Lafite in 1855 had 74ha and today has 115ha, Mouton Rothschild had 55ha and today 90 ha whereas Haut-Brion remains the same.

Jane’s obscure wine fact to impress fellow wine lovers at dinner parties is that Baron Philippe de Rothschild enlisted the help of Alexis Lichine, owner of Château Prieuré-Lichine and nicknamed the Pope of Wine, to create a new classification in the 1960s. It was in a hair’s breadth of being passed, but was leaked to the local paper the Sud-Oeust, and all hell broke loose and the new classification was shelved.

Running Order:-

0.00 – 4.30

“We can see it as the world’s first culinary ranking“

– Why the 1855 classification was created.
– The rules for the 1855 classification.
– Price bands for the five tiers of classification.
4.31 – 10.51

“There was so much infighting and bitching”

– The two changes since the 1855 classification – Cantemerle and Mouton Rothschild.
– The story of how Cantemerle became a 5th growth.
– How the 1855 classification classified the name not vineyard area.
– Changes in vineyard area since the classification.
– One unknown fact – how Alexis Lichine and Baron Phillipe de Rothschild nearly overturned the classification.