▻ Omnibus Ninth Edition

Omnibus Edition

19 Oct

Written By Sarah Kemp

Episode Nine

Episode Summary:-

As we publish this Ninth Edition of Omnibus, harvest is drawing to a close in the Northern Hemisphere. Elin McCoy reports on the 2021 vintage in Europe and North America, and examines how the different regions are faring in terms of quality and quantity. As reported in previous Omnibus editions, the growing season has been extremely difficult in parts of Europe, with hail, frost, floods, and mildew, but despite all of this, Elin finds things haven’t turned out as badly as it looked like they were going to be earlier in the season, though quantities are badly down in some regions.

Over in Napa and Sonoma, there is an explosion of expensive new wine-tasting-room experiences (a long way from the table and spittoon of old, Elin notes wryly). She reveals some of the elaborate wine adventures consumers can enjoy, but worries about how they will affect the locals living there.

John Stimpfig tells how the fine-wine market is broadening as consumers become more adventurous. He reports on the 2021 Liv-ex Classification, which analyses the most important wines of the world by ranking them based on their average trade prices. First published in 2019, the Liv-ex Classification is updated every two years to reflect the changing conditions of the market, and it is fascinating to see which wineries make the top tier (and no, they aren’t all Bordeaux and Burgundy). You may be surprised as to which countries are dominating the table, and which aren’t.

The news that leading UK critic Jancis Robinson MW has sold her eponymous website to a US company, Recurrent Ventures, a private-equity-backed digital-media company, surprises John, and he asks what will it mean for her subscribers around the world?

Saint-Emilion continues to make headlines. After last month’s report on Cheval Blanc and Ausone leaving the classification, Jane Anson reports on another major story attracting controversy. Two of the biggest names in Bordeaux, Hubert de Boὓard, and Philippe Casteja have been accused of “unlawful acquisition of an interest” for their alleged involvement in the classification. Jane talks about how the lawsuit came about and reports on the latest developments.

Finally, John and Sarah discuss the great Becky Wasserman, one of Burgundy’s truly iconic figures, who died recently. Burgundy wouldn’t be what it is today without Becky Wasserman, said Aubert de Villaine of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, a sentiment Sarah and John heartily agree with.

““Small, but high quality, climate-change effects everywhere, labour shortages, and this is very much a wine-growers’ vintage.” ”

— Elin McCoy on Europe’s 2021 vintage

Running Order:-

0.00 – 12.54
“Italy seems to have stolen a march, in that consumers are prepared to pay £1,500 to £3,000 a case for Italian wine, and not so much for Spain.”– Sarah Kemp

John delves into the detail of the winners and losers in the Liv-ex Classification 2021, a league table ranking the most important wines of the world by their average trade price, which determines a hierarchy of the leading labels in the secondary market. Its inspiration is the 1855 Classification of wines from the top estates in Bordeaux. The usual suspects, top Bordeaux and Burgundy, certainly appear, but John also discovers which countries are rising and taking market share and, importantly, consumers’ money.
12.55 – 18.57
“There’s no one I have ever met who works harder than Jancis.”

Jancis Robinson MW, the world-renowned wine writer and critic, has just sold her eponymous website to Recurrent Ventures, a US digital-media company backed by private equity. John reports that Jancis has stated clearly that she is not retiring and will spend more time doing what she loves, tasting and writing about wine. Sarah and John discuss what the sale might mean for her subscribers.
18.58 – 20.53
“When you have people like Aubert de Villaine saying Burgundy wouldn’t be where it was today without Becky Wasserman, it gives you an indication of what her contribution was.”

Sarah and John salute the contributions of the late Becky Wasserman, who died a few weeks ago. Becky was the woman who elevated the profile and status of Burgundy, pinning it firmly to the US wine map, and was one of the wine world’s most respected and beloved figures.
20.54 – 42.32
“France was the poster boy for disaster in 2021, so it’s cheery news that a lot of the wines are going to be of high quality, even if there is going to be very little.”

Elin McCoy reports on the 2021 harvests in the Northern Hemisphere, and predicts what we can expect from the 2021 vintage in the major wine regions. It isn’t as bad as we earlier feared, though quantities are down in many areas. She reports that in the US, the vintners are happy – a welcome break after last year’s wildfires – though drought remains an issue.
42.33 – 54.19
“Everyone is running to wine country, everyone wants to be there.”

The rise of the elaborate tasting room in California is explored by Elin McCoy. The idea of a simple, functional tasting room has gone, and we are at a totally new level, she explains. She discusses the new tasting room at Opus One, which is now intent on creating world-class hospitality to match the greatness of its wine. (There is even a mirror from the Baroness de Rothschild’s bathroom.) The formerly ultra-simple Heitz Cellars, too, has a new experience for wine lovers, and new wine bars are springing up offering great wine by the glass. Sarah predicts that California will become an even greater tourist attraction.
54.20 – 01.01
“Poor old Saint-Emilion, just recovering from the terrible news of Cheval and Ausone stepping down from the classification, and now they have to have the embarrassment of being plastered all over the newspapers that two of the biggest figures in Saint-Emilion have been accused of conflict of interest.” – Jane Anson

Jane gives the background to the lawsuit against Hubert de Boὓard and Philip Casteja, two of Bordeaux’s most prominent figures, which goes back to the controversial 2012 Saint Emilion classification. Both producers are accused of a conflict of interest, and the judgement is expected late October. Jane believes they will be acquitted, but with the threat of large fines and prison sentences of up to five years possible, it is not a comfortable time for two of Bordeaux’s most prominent men.