✒ Why I believe that Tuscany’s golden era is right now
Every wine region has its golden moment, a time when the stars align, into full brightness, and possibilities flourish. It most often occurs when a group of individuals collectively raise the bar.
Bordeaux’s golden era was the 1980s, based on the groundwork of Emile Peynaud, whose knowledge was taken up by some of the wine world’s most charismatic characters, including Jean-Michel Cazes, Anthony Barton, Christian Moueix, May-Eliane de Lencquesaing, a young Corinne Mentzelopolous, Olivier Bernard, Baron Eric de Rothschild. They produced a movement which excited wine lovers and began to transform the wine scene into the dynamic fine-wine world we know today. In the 1990s, it was Burgundy’s turn – Claude and Lydia Bourguignon drew attention to the soil, and Christophe Roumier, Jacques Seysses and Aubert de Villaine amongst others not only raised the bar, but jumped high over it. Today, I believe, it’s Tuscany’s golden turn, based on the same fundamental ingredients: Open-minded research in the vineyards, a reassessment of long-held assumptions, and a group of committed, talented winemakers responding to the myriad new possibilities.
This Tuscan wine renaissance began with the Chianti Classico 2000 project, which was conceived in the late 1980s, where everything in the vineyard was reassessed – clones, training systems, rootstock, plant density, soil management–altogether,16 years of research in collaboration with the Universities of Florence and Pisa. Today, the results are evident in the glass, with Sangiovese taking a starring role, something it was not always able to do back before 2000. Tuscany has also been blessed with a series of brilliant and committed winemakers who seized upon the research and revitalised their vineyards. One of the great natural advantages Tuscany has, especially in Chianti, is the natural woodland which surrounds and intersects the vineyards; for example, at Isole e Olena there are no contiguous vineyards, each vineyard is surrounded by trees, creating a series of subtly different ecosystems, and the beneficial results of this interplay are revealed in the glass. Now, as the rest of the world is waking up to the need for biodiversity (Cheval Blanc in Bordeaux and Harlan Estate in California are planting trees amongst their vines), Chianti is already ahead.
I recently spent a week visiting some of the region’s best-known and highly regarded producers, discovering how the standard has been elevated, and how exhilarating the vivacity and freshness of these wines can be. I have rarely returned from a region more excited. Winemakers like Paolo de Marchi, the Mazzei family, Carlo Ferrini (who was deeply involved with the original research), Francesco Ricasoli – on a one-man mission to rescue his historic estate and return it to its former glory – all are giving us wine lovers reasons to celebrate. This indeed is their time.
Probably the biggest difference from 20 years ago is the work that has been done on understanding their main grape, Sangiovese, whose fortunes have wavered considerably over time, including with its partnerships. And though there are some people who have railed against the use of international varieties, the “Super Tuscans” brought a welcome spotlight to the region, and money, at a time when Chianti’s reputation was that of a wine to be drunk with pizza or pasta in a local trattoria. Some of my favourite wines during my week’s tasting have a percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon or Merlot, and I believe they have a rightful place in the hills of Tuscany, which makes it all the more puzzling as to why the Chianti Classico Gran Selezione rules restrict blends to 90% Sangiovese, and 10% native Italian varieties. It is easy to be an ideological purist about wine, but surely the thing that matters most is what is in our glass? There is no doubt that the Gran Selezione classification has brought more interest in top Chianti, but there are more discoveries from more sources in these hills waiting for wine lovers. Chardonnay from Italy, do we need it? Yes, is my answer if it is made by Paolo de Marchi or Barone Ricasoli; 100% Merlot? Yes, if it is Barone Ricasoli Casalferro (which has no mention of the varietal on the label). Best of all, these wines are still great value in fine-wine terms, with many of them under £50.
Here is a selection of my star buys:-
Isole e Olena
Cepparello 2020
In 1980, Paolo de Marchi made his first 100% Sangiovese, “Cepparello,” after tagging the Sangiovese vines in his vineyards which consistently delivered the most flavour. His contribution to Tuscany and Italy cannot be overstated. He leaves the estate at the end of the year, leaving his legacy alive in the multitude of beautiful bottles he has given his life to.
Seductive, highly perfumed nose drawing you into the glass. Layer upon layer of rich crunchy cherries, waves of plums, spice and cocoa, velvet tannins holding everything in place. Importer: Liberty Wines
Isole e Olena Chardonnay 2021
From just 5.6 hectares, this Chardonnay has a cult following; no wonder, it has the purity of a top Chablis with green-apple crispness, slate minerality, beautiful creamy texture coating the palate, very long and fine. Importer: Liberty Wines
Castello di Fonterutoli
The Mazzei family have been in Tuscany for six centuries. Today the estate is run by brothers Fillipo and Francesco Mazzei, with “Ipsus,” their new estate, run by Fillipo’s son Giovanni. The entire estate is 650 hectares in total, with 110 hectares planted to vines plus 6.5 hectares specially for Ipsus. They have just celebrated 40 years of “Concerto,” one of the first Super Tuscans, which has produced 22 vintages from Alberese soil. I enjoyed a stunning vertical, with each and every wine a choice I would like in my cellar, but these two heartbreakers stood out, and demonstrate why I believe that Chianti is one of the most exciting value for money fine-wine regions in the world at this moment in time.
Concerto di Fonterutoli 2015, Toscana IGT
Glorious floral perfumed nose, 80% Sangiovese, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, red and black fruit dancing across the palate, woodland herb, deep core of fresh vibrant fruit, everything controlled and in balance, savoury and moreish, an elegant seduction of the senses, superb. Importer: Maison Marques et Domaines
Concerto di Fonterutoli 2019, Toscana IGT
I don’t give points, but if I did there would hardly be enough for this wine, and at the price it is a total steal. Hints of coffee on the nose, then an outstanding core of wave upon wave of sensuous red and black fruit, coffee, mint, so juicy and generous, but there is precision here too. The energy in this wine is extraordinary, one of my wines of the year. Importer: Maison Marques et Domaines; Stockist: Hedonism £49.80
Ipsus
I made sure I had a double espresso before meeting Giovanni Mazzei in order to keep up with his boundless energy. Giovanni’s main passion is “Ipsus,” which comes from the Il Caggio property, which until the Marchesi Mazzei family bought it in 2006 had not been under vine. Giovanni Mazzei was struck by the full character of the wine that was made when they planted the area, and moved his young family to the property, which is situated in what has to be one of the most beautiful spots in Tuscany, with a 360-degree panoramic view of the landscape. All his energy and ambition is going into making Tuscany’s finest wine; the first vintage was 2015, and already it has become a true collector’s item.
Ipsus 2019, Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG
Rich aromatic forest fruit jumps out of the glass, a generous explosion of opulent red fruit and velvet tannins – this is a dramatic wine full of tension and energy. A wonderful savoury finish, exciting. Stockists: Corney and Barrow, Honest Grapes
Ipsus 2018, Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG
100% Sangiovese, beautiful uplifted rose petals on the nose, luminous crimson colour, the silkiest tannins imaginable, a core of firm fresh redcurrants underpinned by a layer of deepest dark chocolate. There is clear mint freshness to the wine, but the overall impression is a wine of tension and precision, a tightrope walker, very pure, very long, and very moreish. Stockists: Petersham Cellars, Honest Grapes
Barone Ricasoli
The Brolio Castle owned by Francesco Ricasoli is one of the potent symbols of Chianti, first documented in the family papers in 1141. Francesco Ricasoli gave up his career as a professional photographer to run the estate in 1993 and has spent the last 30 years returning the estate to its former glory (it had been sold off to Seagrams and then Hardy’s). Today, it is making some of Chianti’s finest wines.
Barone Ricasoli Torricella Chardonnay 2021
This wine was a wonderful surprise and must be one of today’s star buys at around £20 a bottle. Mid-gold in colour, purity and precision on the palate, firm core of white flowers, citric notes, harmonious and very elegant. Lovely minerality, satin texture, long and intriguing. Stockists: Vinvm, Partridges of Sloane Square, Simply Wines Direct £23.99
Barone Ricasoli Colledilà 2016 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione, Brolio
Enticing, seductive nose of perfumed musk rose, 100% Sangiovese on limestone soil, beautiful pure red fruit, with layers of minerals, hint of liquorish, silky tannins wrapping sinuously around the fruit. Elegant, long and mesmerising. Stockists: Cru London, St Swithins Wine Shippers £49.99
Barone Ricasoli Colledilà 2020 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione, Brolio
This is an exceptional wine, from an exceptional vineyard. Nose of intoxicating irises, subtle and intriguing. The 2020 vintage has a core of vertical red and black fruit, with an arrow of acidity driving through it. Dark chocolates, woodland herbs, all add to this powerful but controlled and layered wine. It is a wine which has intent, there is huge energy but precision balance too, like a Ferrari on the starting line. Stunning. Importer: John E Fells; Stockist: Cru London £69.99
Barone Ricasoli Castello di Brolio 2020 Gran Selezione
From sandstone and limestone soils at a height of 400-500 metres, the Castello di Brolio has a nose of wild strawberries lifting out of the glass. Tastes of strawberries and redcurrants cut with blackberries, extremely generous, a total celebration of lively fresh fruit, with satin tannins, like attending a house party dressed in velvet. Importer: John E Fells; Stockist: Cru London £59.99
Barone Ricasoli Casalferro 2019
This 100% Merlot has the Ricasoli’s hallmark of purity, direction and precision. From a vineyard of limestone and sandstone, fragrant nose, with wild cherries and plums on the palate, Tuscan spice, very fresh and hedonistic, great grip and controlled energy. Delicious savoury finish. Stockists: Crump Richmond Shaw, Cru London £69.99
Giodo
Carlo Ferrini is one of the most admired and respected consultants anywhere. In 2001, he found an ideal 6 hectares and started making his own wine, along with his daughter Bianca. He has channelled all his years of experience and understanding into his own wine, which clearly demonstrate his intimate understanding of the beauty of the Sangiovese grape.
La Quinta Podere Giodo di Carlo Ferrini 2021 IGT
I am a huge fan of Carlo Ferrini, who has done so much to raise the reputation of Chianti. Giodo is his own small property, which he runs with his daughter Bianca. La Quinta comes from vineyards close to the cellar, from 7-year-old vines. Carlo, who must have more experience with clones than most people, has chosen 8 for the composition of La Quinta. Highly perfumed nose of wild roses, fresh crunchy red forest fruit, dark cherries, mint, silky tannins beautifully integrated, very fresh and very pure. Importer: Lea and Sandeman
Giodo Brunello di Montalcino 2019
Very floral bouquet, on the palate an explosion of sweet juicy blue and red fruit, depth and concentration, coffee, dark chocolate, firm tannins holding all in place. A wine with a clear sense of place. Importer: Lea and Sandeman
Biondi-Santi
Biondi-Santi has been a symbol of classic Brunello, and is one of Italy’s most sought-after wines. Today, it is owned by the EPI group (who also own Charles Heidsieck and Isole e Olena). They are putting considerable investment into the estate, reminding me of the great line in Lampedusa’s “The Leopard” – “For things to remain the same, everything must change.” Exciting times for this great estate.
Biondi-Santi Brunello di Montalcino Reserva 2010
Made from vines more than 25 years old, it has a seductive floral nose, very perfumed with irises and peonies. Deep firm core of lively red fruit and Victoria plums, fresh mushrooms, bark, very layered cashmere tannins, extremely fine and elegant. Importer: Liberty Wine Stockist: Berry Brothers and Rudd
Biondi-Santi Brunello di Montalcino Reserva 1988
The words “utterly gorgeous” should suffice. An outstanding Biondi-Santi, truffles on the nose, an exuberant explosion of lovely woodland fruit, truffles and fresh mushrooms, a streak of acidity running through like an arrow, silky fine tannins, but the overall impression is a wine of harmony and exquisite balance. Importer: Liberty Wines to be released Spring 2024
Bertinga
The owners bought the three vineyards in Gaiole in Chianti from Castello di Ama. Though it’s a relatively new winery, they are focused on the individual expression of each vineyard. A winery to watch.
Bertinga Sassi Chuisi Toscana IGT 2018
This is their second vin, Bertinga, Toscana IGT being their flagship wine. 85% Sangiovese-15% Merlot. This shows delicious bright crunchy redcurrants, gently extracted, good attack and balance, very drinkable and moreish. 25,000 bottles and released later as they believe it needs time to show its true character. Not imported to the UK currently
Tenuta di Ghizzano
If dogs take after their owners, do wineries reflect theirs? It certainly seems so at Tenuta di Ghizzano, where the delightful Ginerva Venerosi Pescolini beats her own drum with her biodynamic wines. All her wines have distinct personalities – they demand attention. Based in a beautiful bowl of hills south-east of Pisa, the estate has been in her family since 1370. Today 20 hectares are planted to vines, and 20 more to olives.
Tenuta di Ghizzano, Nambrot 2019 A blend of 60% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc, 20% Petit Verdot; 18 months in barrique, 12 months in bottle
Mid-ruby colour, a whiff of forest berries and cigar box on the nose, on the palate a firm grip of blackcurrants, fresh mint, plush and juicy. There is purity here and a deep firm core of delicious energised fruit, black pepper, cinnamon, with a wonderful core of acidity driving through, very long and despite the concentration of the fruit, there is lightness of touch too. Refined and elegant. Importer: Woodwinters, Scotland; Stockist: Xtrawine.com £40.20
Tenuta di Ghizzano, Mimesi Vermentino, Costa Toscana, 2022
Mid-gold colour, very distinct nose with intriguing hints of lemon sherbet, very rich intense core of Bramley apples slightly bruised, very textured, elegant, pure with a long finish. This is a serious Vermentino, not a summer day’s Vermentino. Thoughtful and intriguing. The wine, which is 100% Vermentino, spends 15 days on the skins in small amphoras. Importer: Woodwinters, Scotland.
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Great to meet Emanuele Reolon, the new Estate Director of Isole e Olena at the River Café for the launch of the new vintages.