▻ Roussillon
In conversation with Rosemary George MW
Episode Summary:-
Rosemary George MW talks to Sarah Kemp about the wines of Roussillon, which she believes can rival the wines of Priorat, but have the advantage of being considerably less expensive. She discusses why they are not as well known as those wines across the border in Spain and how they have suffered from a lack of identity, too often being twinned with Languedoc Roussillon. She agrees with fellow wine writer Andrew Jefford, who described Roussillon as “a northern Catalan echo of Priorat,” who observed that the wines were just as “mineral. . . no less overwhelming; often fresher.”
Rosemary talks about how Vin Sec has taken over from Vin Doux Naturel, and how a new generation of young vignerons whose families used to sell to the co-operative are now making their own wine and how there has been an influx of newcomers attracted by the viticultural conditions and the price of the land. She discusses how the appellation has varied soil types, such as volcanic, limestone, and granite, and how Maury is known for its schist. She describes the various villages, and says that the whole of the Agly valley is producing very exciting wines.
The main grape of Roussillon is Grenache in all its colours, but there is also Carignan, which brings more acidity and freshness, and Syrah and Mourvèdre are becoming more important, but very little Cinsault. White grapes include Grenache Blanc and Grenache Gris, Carignan Blanc and Carignan Gris and Macabeo, which originated in the Penedes region and is not found in the Languedoc.
The freshness of the white wines is one of her most exciting discoveries, and she explains how some of the more experimental wines are classified under the Côtes Catalanes (IGP) e.g., if they are single varieties, as the appellations are always blends. The Natural wine movement is also growing in Roussillon and many of the wines are labelled under Vin de France.
Rosemary names some of her star producers including Gérard Gauby and Mas Amiel, and says that “I think that there are quite a lot of producers who probably should have a wider reputation – when you think of the names in Priorat, you think there are any number of producers like Roc des Anges, Domaines de l’Horizon and Olivier Pithon that are making comparable wines.”
While Vin Sec is popular, Rosemary recommends trying Hors d’Age Rivesaltes Maury, which she loves, and Rancio Sec, which she compares to a fino sherry. Best of all, go and visit the region, she advises, the scenery is fabulous and there are wonderful restaurants as well.
““Priorat commands very high prices, Rosemary, do you think Wine Conversation Listeners can find wines of similar quality at much reduced prices?” ”
““Undoubtedly, an emphatic yes.” ”
Running Order:-
-
0.00 – 8.50
“Roussillon didn’t become part of France until the Treaty of the Pyrenees in 1659.”
Rosemary George MW talks to Sarah Kemp about how different the wines of Roussillon are from the Languedoc just to the north, and yet the two regions have been lumped together in consumers’ minds. They talk about her recent book,“The Wines of Roussillon” and discuss why Roussillon does not have a reputation for its wines, which Andrew Jefford described as “a northern Catalan echo of Priorat.” Rosemary explains how Vin Sec has overtaken Vin Doux Naturel in production, driven by market changes and a new generation of wine growers and newcomers becoming excited about the possibilities of Vin Sec. The relatively cheap price of land has attracted many outside investors, who have brought energy to the region.
Rosemary discusses the impact of climate change, and how Roussillon can no longer count on the summer storms which brought rain to the vineyards. Despite the drier summer, she is delighted by how fresh the white wines can be, and believes it is a result of the altitude. She describes the variety of soil types in the region, which vary from volcanic to limestone, to granite (with Maury known for its schist) and the different appellations within the region which includes Collioure, Maury, Banyuls and Rivesaltes. -
8.51 – 13.30
“The real discovery was finding how fresh the white wines are.”
The white wines were one of Rosemary’s greatest discoveries – she was impressed by their freshness and describes them as really exciting. She explains that some of the more experimental wines are labelled under Côtes Catalanes (IGP) and some Natural wines are labelled under Vin de France. -
13.31 – 21.23
“I think all of the Agly valley is exciting and producing very good wine”
Star producers recommended include Gérard Gauby in Calce and Mas Amiel in Maury. She believes that quite a lot of producers should have a wider reputation than they do: “You think of the names in Priorat and you think, why aren’t Roc des Anges, Domaine de l’Horizon and Oliver Pithon, who are producing comparable wines, better known?”
Rosemary describes how she loves the Hors d’Age Rivesaltes Maury and thinks Rancio Sec should be better known, especially if you are a sherry fan. She urges people to visit the region, which not only has wonderful wines, but great scenery and restaurants too.
(The Infinite Ideas Classic Wine Library has just published “The Wines of Roussillon” which is available to Wine Conversation listeners at a 40% discount until the end of June 2021.)
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