▻ Michel Roux Jr

Let's Talk With

3 Jan

Written By Sarah Kemp

In conversation with Michel Roux Jr

Episode Summary:-

On January 13th, the doors will finally close on London’s most beloved French restaurant, The Gavroche, leaving a large hole in the hearts of gastronomes and wine lovers. Jane Anson talks to Michel Roux Jr about how his father and uncle launched The Gavroche in 1967, seeing a gap in the market for a restaurant with fine food (the restaurant scene was not what it is now, not at all). Michel explains that his father and uncle were keen to showcase their skills and heritage, and how important it was to have a very good wine list to go with the sort of food they were cooking. As a French child, Michel grew up exposed to wine at a very young age, where it was normal for him to have a sip of wine at Sunday lunch. In the 1960s and 1970s, prior to the United Kingdom joining the Common Market, it was difficult to buy direct, but over the years the Roux brothers built up personal relationships with the producers, and many wines were always bought directly from the properties.

Jane asks him what is going to happen to the extensive Gavroche cellar when it closes. “I’ve far too much wine to drink on my own, I could fill an Olympic-size swimming pool with it,” he says. He will keep some for himself, some for events he will continue to do under the Gavroche name, some will go to his daughter and son-in-law’s restaurant, Caractère, and there is likely to be a significant auction in March with a well-known auction house. Buying En Primeur has also always been a Roux strategy, and today that continues under his cousin Alain, so there are treasures.

Michel has also been involved in making wine with Michel Chapoutier, of whom he is a huge fan. He estimates that the cellar comprises 100,000 bottles, of which 95% are French. The Head Sommelier, Rémi Cousin, joined eight years ago, and has added non-French wine, mainly from Italy, South Africa, Spain, Australia and the US. One popular part of the wine list has been their Bin Ends, which was introduced after the Covid lockdown. Some have damaged labels, or there are only a couple of bottles left from a case; “It’s been a roaring success,” Michel said with a grin.

““I’ve far too much wine to drink on my own, I could fill an Olympic-size swimming pool with it,” ”

— Michel Roux

The cheeseboard is rightly famous, with over 35 different cheeses. The British cheese selection has gotten bigger and bigger, as Michel believes the quality is amazing. Red or white with the cheese, Jane asks? “I’d go for a Madeira, a sherry or a Tawny Port,” he replies. He also confides that there is value in off-vintages, and believes that the knowledge of a good sommelier is invaluable.

Many of today’s famous chefs have trained under the Roux family, such as Pierre Koffman, Marco Pierre White, and Gordon Ramsay, as well as well-known sommeliers like David Ridgway of the Tour d’Argent. “We owe it as an industry to train, it’s a very Roux tradition to pass on our knowledge, to inspire the next generation.” He tells Jane there have been problems finding staff since Brexit, and how they have trained young people up at the restaurant, as it was hard to find people with experience.

Advice on cooking with wine? It must be palatable, he says, but “Don’t put your Château Lafite in your Boeuf Bourguignon!” Wine flights have been popular at the Gavroche, but he is a great advocate of half-bottles, and laments that more restaurants don’t serve them.

The Gavroche closes its doors to the public for the last time on 13th January, and Michel confesses it will be an emotional moment. The bottle he has been saving for his last dinner with family and friends? Chapoutier Le Meal.

Running Order:-

0.00 – 12.53

“Being brought up as a French child exposed me to wine from a young age, it was a normal ritual on a Sunday to have a sip of wine.”

– How his uncle and father saw a gap in the market and launched The Gavroche in 1967.
– Growing up in the Roux household and attitude to wine.
– The wines on the list when The Gavroche opened.
– Buying policy of The Gavroche.
– The wines which have been staples on the wine list.
– What happens to the wine when the restaurant closes.
12.54 – 31.35

“It is a very Roux tradition to pass on our knowledge, to inspire the next generation.”

– Working with Michel Chapoutier.
– The Gavroche wine list, 95% French.
– The popular introduction of Bin Ends after lockdown.
– The legendary Gavroche cheeseboard, and British cheese.
– Michel’s favourite wines with cheese.
– Training sommeliers and the Roux belief in passing on knowledge.
– Using wine in cooking.
– The importance of half-bottles.
– The bottle Michel has saved to celebrate with friends and family.