▻ Burgundy Cuisine

Let's Talk About

12 Mar

Written By Sarah Kemp

▴ Rosi Hanson, French food expert — *▴ Rosi Hanson, French food expert*

In conversation with Rosi Hanson

Episode Summary:-

Rosi Hanson is a journalist, French food expert who worked for Elizabeth David, and author of “Recipes From The French Wine Harvest.” She has lived between London and Burgundy since the late 1960s with her husband, Burgundy expert Anthony Hanson MW. In this episode, Rosi talks to Sarah Kemp on how menus have changed in Burgundy, from hearty Burgundian fare to lighter dishes featuring more local produce. They discuss the catalysts for change, including oeno-tourism, grower wines and Asia.

““A lot began to change as France, with its wonderfully revered cuisine, began to be less respected in the early 2000s.””

— Rosi Hanson

Running Order:-

0.00 – 6.01

Sarah Kemp talks to Rosi Hanson who explains how in the late ‘60s the robust Burgundian dishes like Boeuf Bourguignon, Snails in Garlic, and Oeufs en Meurette matched the heavier styles of Burgundy wine being produced by the merchants. Tourists came to Burgundy to see the Hospice de Beaune and the town, as oeno-tourism hadn’t started and the menus were fairly standard.
6.02 – 9.24

Rosi explains how even pickers’ lunches have changed, with more domaines employing outside caterers. The wives and girlfriends who had previously cooked either now were making the wine or had outside jobs and earlier dates for the harvest due to global warming has meant that salads are now appearing on the menu. Restaurants responded to the growth of oeno-tourism – tourists wanted to try wines by the glass from their favourite growers, as many domaines were not set up to receive tourists.
6.02 – 9.24

“France was an absolute desert for vegetarians, never mind vegans, for years and years and years.”

One of the catalysts for change was a more travelled audience, both a younger generation of growers who went abroad for experience, and sophisticated executives who demanded a more adventurous style of cuisine. Local and organic produce was sought by a new generation of restauranteurs who were not interested in grand décor. The success of Burgundy sales in the Far East resulted in Japanese influences in some restaurants back in Burgundy. Rosi talks about how Michelin-star restaurants are still important to the locals for special occasions, and how, despite the cuisine becoming lighter, cheese remains firmly on the menu both at restaurants and at home.